Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just putting this expression of interest out there for a long block.

The engine was built by Advan Performance Centre in NSW and was a no expense spared build.

The engine is a 1996 S2 RB25 and was rebuilt with the following specifications:

BLOCK

- R34 GTR N1 crankshaft to bring engine capacity to 2.6L

- H beam Carillo connecting rods

- Mahle forged pistons

- N1 Oil pump

- N1 Water pump

- ACL Pro Series bearings

- New welsh plugs, gaskets etc. done during build

HEAD

- HKS metal headgasket

- HKS 264 degree intake and exhaust camshafts with VCT removed

- HKS Cam gears

- HKS Valve Springs

- HKS Timing Belt

- New seals, guides, valves etc. done during build

- Oil restrictors

- ARP Head Studs

- Machining, porting and polishing all carried out by Advan Performance Centre

This is a big HP engine built to withstand the 700HP and 8000RPM limiter is runs all day long. Engine has now done just under 20,000km and is healthy as ever. Only ever run on Motul Chrono 10W40.

* Currently the car is making between 360-390rwkw on BP98 on 1.5-1.6BAR of boost pressure through a GT3540R in a R33 GTST. The car is an absolute animal when it comes on and is a real handful to keep straight.

The engine is still in the vehicle so can be test driven if required. I'm hoping not to pull the motor out until I have a buyer interested but will see how I go.

Asking $8000 for the long block but I am open to reasonable offers if the price doesn't seem fair.

If some one wanted the complete engine setup with manifolds, turbo etc. I would be open to discuss that as well.

The car has run a low 11 second pass with this package in street trim on a shitty track. Put the engine into a VL or a S chassis and you have a 10 second car.

Any one that has done an engine build like this through a well known workshop knows how much money gets put into these builds and the brand new parts alone are worth more than what I'm asking for the engine so I think it is fair.

If there is any more info I can think of I will update the thread. Just quickly writing it up so I may have missed something!

Thanks guys.

Phil

Will give a free bump as well. Seen this package in its early days after build and it sounded like a f**king mental angry chainsaw on crack! Would be a perfect buy for someone looking to save a few dollars

Edited by Weapon
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Engine is two years old and has done approx 18,000km. Didn't keep any receipts unfortunately.

I'm planning on dropping the sump off and taking photos of the crank, rods and pistons though to show proof of the internals.

If some one just wanted the bottom end I will seperate if need be.

Won't seperate the head until I have a buyer for the bottom end though as the head/cams will be quite easy to sell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...