Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellow skyliners, I'm in the need of some help with understanding whats going on with my battery. I'm still trying to get my head around this.

So I had a guy from the NRMA come and have a look at the battery in my car. The car is a 1993 r33 gts3 and the battery is in the boot. He was pretty knowledgeable and sent for someone to come and replace the battery.

2 guys from the NRMA came along (a while after the previous guy had concluded his work) some of the main confusions I got from a conversation with them:

They were confused as to why the car didn't have 2 batteries - one in the boot and one in the bonnet. Apparently some skylines have 2?

They said the battery wasn't the right model - A guy from the NRMA replaced it last and that was the battery that I was given. I think the battery the NRMA give to silvias fit my car and the official r33 battery didn't fit. I can't quite remember. My main problem is that this is the battery that fits the car, why are they saying it's the wrong one.

And lastly, I was told the boot has to have some kind of vent when a battery is present in the boot - this really didn't make much sense to me.

I was told that the guy who previously changed the battery is going to come and give me a refund, I told them that I wanted a battery and they said something along the lines of "if its your choice to have the wrong battery"

Does anyone have any insight into this?

Edited by Vera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/
Share on other sites

93' R34? :O

I had a battery problem - however, my alarm wasn't connected which wouldn't allow for anything else to work.

I have not heard of 2x batteries. I know that R34's are in the front and R33's in the boot?

Goodluck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149486
Share on other sites

93' R34? :O

I had a battery problem - however, my alarm wasn't connected which wouldn't allow for anything else to work.

I have not heard of 2x batteries. I know that R34's are in the front and R33's in the boot?

Goodluck

R33, Fixed

I couldn't find any info on dual batteries on the web

Edited by Vera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149489
Share on other sites

that moron from NRMA should be shot.

R33 Coupes GTS/GTS-t/GT-R ALL have their batteries in the boot

R33 Sedans GTS/GTS-t ALL have their batteries in the engine bay

Thanks for the clarification. I might make a complaint about this depending on the outcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149498
Share on other sites

32 and 34 the battery is in the engine bay from factory

Sometimes they're moved to the rear to create additional room for things like oil catch cans.

Where you see 2 batteries. They are generally used 1 to crank the car the other to support the Stereo (extra electricals)

the 33's I have seen have them in the boot. They are a thin looking battery

If you relocate a battery to the boot it must be in a Marine battery box and vented to the atmosphere (Generally via tube)

In the ACT this includes sealed batteries like the Optima series.

Any general battery will do the job.

Sometimes the restriction is what side the -/+ terminals are on as the cables wont stretch far enough and/or

the space the battery has to sit.

Edit: Too late again :(

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149500
Share on other sites

32 and 34 the battery is in the engine bay from factory

Sometimes they're moved to the rear to create additional room for things like oil catch cans.

2 batteries are generally used 1 to crank the car the other to support the Stereo (extra electricals)

the 33's I have seen have them in the boot. They are a thin looking battery

If you relocate a battery to the boot it must be in a Marine battery box and vented to the atmosphere (Generally via tube)

In the ACT this includes sealed batteries like the Optima series.

Any general battery will do the job.

Sometimes the restriction is what side the -/+ terminals are on as the cables wont stretch far enough and/or

the space the battery has to sit.

Edit: Too late again :(

Ok, but if the battery came in the boot factory, then shouldn't it also be vented factory? I'm not sure what to look for.

I really don't understand this since no one has mentioned this problem before

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149504
Share on other sites

there's a factory grommet which allows a hose to be connected from the battery to be vented to the ground, it is to the LHS of the battery tray of you're looking straight up from the rear of the car.

The correct battery will have a vent port and a hose coming out of it.. the brand you often see used with that configuration to pass compliance and other shit is "DELKOR"

However, just go for a full sealed AGM battery such as an Optima D51RT1 which is a direct fit with the small reversed terminals and does not require any venting of any sort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149530
Share on other sites

Update:

New guy came out and changed the battery no problems. Then after he asked me about the people who came before.

So he said: the battery doesn't need to be vented because of its size, then showed me some models that had the holes to fix a hose to. Also said he's unsure of why the other guys didn't just changed the battery and said they've made a mistake saying the battery is the wrong model and not an NRMA battery.

I don't know whether or not I should write to the NRMA about this episode of incompetency, if the 2 guys hadn't requested that the person who changed my battery last to come and deal with this, I would have been refunded the money and left without a battery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149570
Share on other sites

Just some info about batteries. For our modern enough skyline cars our alternators output it sufficient enough generally 70A+ to choose essentually the biggest battery you can fit (length and width)with correct terminals, venting requirement, orientation in a pre-detemined space from generic retailers(lead acid). Height should be equivalent of OEM to prevent fouling or non-conformance to ventilation requirements.

Best battery to buy for r33 cheap is a 67ef or equavalent (EF falcon) that will bolt in. I usually change to large terminals as there is a bigger variety and generally cheaper pricing. I also connected a second earth.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7149729
Share on other sites

I have a 32 and i put the battery in the boot.

I got a nice big 650 cca battery.

Got a box, a vent line, and 0 gauge cable to the engine bay. Good solid earths all over the place. And gold plated terminals help deliver good current.

Often the factory cable isnt really big enough.

Mines never had a problem since.

Jaycar has a real cheap voltmeter, it helps you see whats going on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436568-battery-advice/#findComment-7150047
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...