Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The transfer case in my R32 GTR looks to have packed a sad after a track day I had on Wed.

It now screams when accelerating, I have a 4x4 controller and when I switch it to 2wd the noise goes away, I have been told it might be that I have overheated the plates, and also the bearings might be shot.

Has any rebuilt one of these before?

What parts did you need? Seals/bearings/plates etc?

Also what are the thoughts of running a transfer case oil cooler like the Aussie Spec R32s and the N1s?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios:

www.ag-y.com

or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun.

There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

Although their boxes are smooth as silk, everything I've read and heard point to these AGY being a "circuit" box and not a "drag/hillilmb/dumbshit" box. I'm trying to get their synchro gear to go in my new box but it doesn't look promising :(
  • Like 1

Cheers Guys,

I have bought a good second hand R33 box complete with transfer case (I have already got and R33 one in the car) for only $500nzd so it was a bargain (usually about three times that much in NZ)

I'll fit the transfer case to my existing gearbox as I had a few of the syncros replaced not long ago, and I know it's all good.

But I think I might rebuilt the broken one with these upgraded plates:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/161207-n01-new-tranfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html

And also run a oil cooler setup like the Aussie spec/N1 cars, I bought a full set of diff and transfer case coolers from a UK Spec R34 that I should be able to mod to fit.

I read on here somewhere that you can "just put an extra plate in" to the standard transfer and it gives them a better take up due to less clearance.

Has anyone got any experience with that? I've got a spare transfer case so if it's that straight forward I'll whack one in while it's out of the car.

I believe Racepace do this upgrade as well. They'd charge two arms and 3 legs for it however...

  • 2 weeks later...

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

  • Like 1

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

Before of after front diff?

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Before of after front diff?

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while.

After diff = no more helli's :thumbsup:

Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock.
The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front.
A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point.
His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run).
Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

for spirited street driving and the occasional track and strip day is it really worth doing? To do both must be serious $$

Im looking at getting a 33 GTR soon and all things being equal I don't mind tail happy and thoroughly enjoyed my GTST in this.

However is the way these aged GTR diffs/transfer cases operate unpredictable? Like a LSD's often are in GTST's where sometimes they hook up other times they don't...

I had a friend who had an older GTR and they said it was a bit unpredictable how the AWD was going to kick in and that does not sound like a good time...

I would say it's worth it, just in much nicer to push fast even on a hills run etc. Totally predictable so don't worry about that.

With or without the 4wd never 'kicks in when it wants', just sounds like a system with problems or someone that didn't know how to drive. Gotta remember it's not full time 4wd so you need to understand how/when how will do it's thing etc.

There's definitely merit in it if you're tracking your car. On the street (if you have large testes) it can be a lot of fun to hang the arse out before the front grabs but I have little doubt it would make you a lot quicker at the track to have full all wheel drive earlier. That in conjunction with a good torque split controller and you're laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...