Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

So I've searched and cant find a repository of all questions relating to modifying an auto skyline(closest thing is auto performance thread which hardly anyone ever replies to and is mostly about figures and specs)

I think it would be helpful for all auto skyline owners to have all their questions answered in one thread...

The usual questions :

- Can someone post their standard setup in an r33 s2 auto - computer management , injector size , fuel pump type, transmission cooler type , high flow turbo , valve body mods other mods etc. and power output

- How much can a decent condition auto box usually handle before it goes boom?

- Is a transcooler is all that is needed to ensure longevity for a car running below 250rwkw?

- Recommended workshop in Sydney to work on Skyline auto tranny's?

- Recommend a transcooler that did the job , good quality and easy installation

- What size injectors are usually used/needed with BPU ( fmic,exhaust, high flow turbo, fuel pump). Will there be any issues with tuning if going to large (would 550cc Nismo's suffice?disdvantages going with 1000cc's?)

- What computer management can we auto guys use? I know standalone is out of the question , is the eManage adequate? What about the SAFC2?

- Am I better of going with an eManage as opposed to getting the ecu tuned my Toshi

My Goal is to get a reliable 240rwkw at about 16psi on a high flowed r33 turbo with intake/exhaust, injectors , fuel pump and emanage.

Edited by tripsteady
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436706-the-automatic-thread-questions/
Share on other sites

With a shift kit and trans cooler you should be good for around 300kw, other than that the normal supporting mods apply, but you will need to aim a little high, the auto will suck 10% or more of your power output when compared to a manual.

Considering you would need to buy an Emanage Ultimate, plug in or universal loom, map sensor, wire it in then get it tuned, I think Toshi might be your best bet.

  On 24/12/2013 at 1:48 AM, scotty nm35 said:

With a shift kit and trans cooler you should be good for around 300kw, other than that the normal supporting mods apply, but you will need to aim a little high, the auto will suck 10% or more of your power output when compared to a manual.

Considering you would need to buy an Emanage Ultimate, plug in or universal loom, map sensor, wire it in then get it tuned, I think Toshi might be your best bet.

Cheers.

Oustanding questions :

- Recommended workshop in Sydney to work on Skyline auto tranny's?

- Recommend a transcooler that did the job , good quality and easy installation

- What size injectors are usually used/needed with BPU ( fmic,exhaust, high flow turbo, fuel pump). Will there be any issues with tuning if going to large (would 550cc Nismo's suffice?disdvantages going with 1000cc's?)

No idea, I am in Melbourne. I could suggest a few good places down here, but obviously you will need to search around Sydney for a suitable trans specialist, or simply fit an MV valve body yourself.

Trans cooler- any large (V8) cooler from Autobarn that fits, and has the same barbed connections, 8mm I think.

The other questions are better answered by your tuner, or Toshi in this case. There may be limitations to the stock ecu. Other than that, Bosch 1000's are cheaper than Nismo injectors. (and there are plenty of fake Nismo injectors getting about.)

Pump, get a Walbro 460L at $200.

I destroyed a MV auto box in about 10,000kms. However this was a n/a box that was built up, not the turbo version. They said this is the same but it is not. (For the r34).

I have an aftermarket transmission ecu and a haltech ps2000 for the engine.

Dunno anyone in Sydney - I sent my entire transmission on a pallet to SA for it to go bang when it came back ;). MV can send the items to you or a mechanic though. The actual assembly of the auto transmission is 'easy' - any transmission shop can assemble it and the MV guys are easy to talk to.

I recently installed a Davies Craig Hydra Cool Transmission Cooler (Part No: 678), read more here: Auto Trans Cooler Upgrade

Easy install (although you'll need to remove your front mount first) and seems to work well.

  On 02/01/2014 at 10:43 PM, V28VX37 said:

I recently installed a Davies Craig Hydra Cool Transmission Cooler (Part No: 678), read more here: Auto Trans Cooler Upgrade

Easy install (although you'll need to remove your front mount first) and seems to work well.

ended up buying this for $139 at supercheap

Got my rocker cover gasket kit from kudo motosports (lol all the usual r33 failings have befallen me - coils went - replaced with splitfires , exhaust manifold studs snapped - replaced with uprated toyota ones ....and now my cam covers are leaking....)

Also got a walboro gs342 pump from kudo with kit.

Going get a service , coolant flush and replace the plugs , should be good enough for Toshi should tune after all of the above is installed.

Does anyone know that if i would also need to get the rocker cover washer set as well for $99 as the fix for the usual cam cover leakage that the rb25 suffers?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-cam-rocker-cover-washer-set-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts25-gts4-gtst-r33-gts-gts25-gts25t-gts4-r34-gtr-p-627.html

Everything toyota is better lol, higher quality materials used. My nissanhead engine builder mate even agrees. Broken exhaust studs not common on toyotas but seems expected on nissans after a while.

  On 04/01/2014 at 2:24 AM, superben said:

*easy to replace

  On 03/01/2014 at 8:34 PM, superben said:

Why are the Toyota studs better? The nissan ones lasted a fair while!

I wouldn't worry about the rocket cover washers. worse car scenario they are ready to replace at a later date.

The toyota ones are rated as much stronger, the Nissan ones did last a fair while but the ones I put in will last the life of the car. Well Id prefer all oil leaks to be fixed before I do any sort of tune.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok guys , need some advice....

Should I :

1. Go with the Toshi's road and dyno tune (just with a front mount , pod filter , fuel pump and boost controller) for engine reponse

OR

2. Buy a high flow turbo , buy z32 afm and buy 550cc injectors and then get Toshi to tune.

Would it be better for me to buy these parts first and then get Toshi to tune a bit later on or to not buy injectors or afm and just do normal tune with him?

Disadvantage with the second option is that I would have to wait another month or two longer to recoup funds but at least then I dont have to tune twice!

  On 22/01/2014 at 6:02 AM, GTSBoy said:

Don't do something that needs a tune, then drive around while you save up. Save up what you need for the physical work AND the tune then do it all together.

Oh yeah , id never do that. I did that with my last car...biggest noob mistake ever. Built engine - TRD cams, honed bored , MHG etc and then ran the stock ecu like an idiot. Spun a bearing in under 1000km

More importantly, best tuning options? Want to go above 220rwkw so Safc is not an option and to use emanage you have to remap the ecu first- so have to remap ecu - buy emanage and then tune emanage - quite an expensive exercise

Toshi only has manual ecu's left....he seems like he knows hes stuff though so I'll be buying all the parts and hold of installing it until I can figure out what kind of tune to do with him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 馃槀  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
  • Create New...