Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Cut Off Mod - How To Guide?


jackbh241
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I know this has been posted a million times but I was just wondering if anyone has written a succinct how to guide for the brake cut off mod on the m35? Can only find 100 page discussions and no actual how to.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and sorry about the noob-ness.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All info you need is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/397960-m35-stagea-brake-cut-off-mod/page-1, but read all the way thru to get all the tips.

There's no fully detailed DIY 'how to' as such, mainly because it's really easy.

Find wire on ECU.

Cut wire.

Run to switch or some other 12V source to allow ECU to 'reset' CEL.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't worry about running it to a 12V source. I have had to replace an ecu which blew from fiddling around with 12V to pin 55.

Just cut the wire and put a switch over the cut. Run it to wherever you need to mount the switch.

Sounds like someone did something wrong then. 12V is 12V. How does the ECU know if you've got your foot on the brake or the wire is connected to the reverse lights (for example)?

Then again its a wagon. Not a gtr

True, but why does anyone do mods at all? This is about the easiest mod & best bang-for-buck of any available for a M35 imo. Even if you never drag it ('cause it's a wagon, not a GTR :)), being able to give it more than 30% throttle immediately after you've braked for a corner is worth the few minutes spent doing it.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

did it take you long to do the mod?

Not really. The wires going into the ecu don't have much play so it was fiddly , but other then that it's prob a 30 min jon by the time you pull the kick panels off etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name="Commsman" post="7154590" timestamp="1388140065"

True, but why does anyone do mods at all? This is about the easiest mod & best bang-for-buck of any available for a M35 imo. Even if you never drag it ('cause it's a wagon, not a GTR :)), being able to give it more than 30% throttle immediately after you've braked for a corner is worth the few minutes spent doing it.

My reason for not doing is 'Not' because its a wagon, its that im color blind and cant figure out what wire to cut....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did you have to connect to 12v power josh? eg cigaret socket

No just throw a switch across the cut wire. Then when the car throws the code. Just flick the switch on and hit the brakes a few times

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did you have to connect to 12v power josh? eg cigaret socket

the main 12v power source used is the reverse light circuit which can be found in boots top panel where compliance putsvthe baby seat holding points. All you will need is a test light to find the wire once the reverse gear is selected. Hope that makes sence
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the main 12v power source used is the reverse light circuit which can be found in boots top panel where compliance putsvthe baby seat holding points. All you will need is a test light to find the wire once the reverse gear is selected. Hope that makes sence

would you do this on the ecu wirring for reverse?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No just throw a switch across the cut wire. Then when the car throws the code. Just flick the switch on and hit the brakes a few times

This. ^^

As there are many other people who are going to read this, just crimp some spade terminals onto the wires and run it to a switch, that way you can easily reset the code every month or two.

Leon seems to think everyone is an electronics guru, but there is absolutely no need to automate such a simple signal. All the ecu needs is a 5 second burst of power which is easily automated but I have seen so many wiring faults caused by DIY brake cut fiddling after owners reading threads like this... Now I just recommend the simple wire cut. (unless you feel very confident).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...