Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic states , I am looking at a couple of Elgrand xl's they have which seem good value on paper and wondering if anyone has had prior dealings with them ?

They are the ones located at fairbank rd Clayton South in Victoria.

I know this is a Skyline forum but I have always found the info here to be pretty good and the forum has come a looooonnnggg way since I was last on ( Congrats Prank ).

Some of the original members on here from WA may remember me...

Which may or may not be a good thing :whistling:

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436851-autoproject-good-bad-or-plain-ugly/
Share on other sites

As the title and content states, an Elgrand XL.

Buying direct from Japan appears to be no cheaper than what is on offer in Australia atm.

But feel free to correct me.

So back to the topic, has anyone dealt with Autoproject ?

Cheers

Ken

Only buy Aust if there's Jap history with De-reg and auction papers due to odo haircuts.

Check Oz servicing and fault codes too.

Search for thread here on SAU for "common faults" of Elgrands.

Thankyou for that Terry and am fully aware of getting independent odo checks etc.

I just want to know if Autoproject is reputable or more like the rest of the Parramatta rd type dealers...

Cheers

Ken

** Note that this only applies to some of the Parramatta rd type dealers and not all :yes: **

I would be giving Comptune Engineering (Sydney Compliance center) in Sydney a call, they are one of 4 shops who comply these things and last time I was there they were happy to chat and they had about 100 of the things parked up waiting to be done.

A phone call costs nothing but a dud car does, 1/4 chance they did the car too.

Edited by dnegative

Thanks for the info dnegative but doubt they would rubbish a clients car over the phone to a random stranger and Sydney is a little far to drive to ask in Person :wacko:

Am swaying to importing again ( I used to bring in GTR's years ago but my buyer has retired, gone, died, been arrested, got married or something ... ) as after talking to a couple of importes who are mentioned on here , the prices for some of the advertised cars in Australia are absolute bargains if they are true.

And we all know the saying

If it too good to be true, it probably is .

BTW Phil at Direct, having a front page on your website that is 4 years old does not inspire confidence.

Cheers

Ken

Hi Ken

thanks for the Feed back ... unfortunately your right the site is getting a a little old and needs revamp. finding someone to do it on the other hand is a little difficult as over the past few years ive paid out over $2000 to have stuff done only to have zero result. Private importers have not been such a large aspect of lately so the site has taken a back seat.

Anyway we have been here since 1997 so i hope your confidence is ok with that.

feel free to offer any web services if you know anyone capable

regards, Phil

I have dealt with Phil for 15 years now, I have purchased many vehicles through him and the companies he buys for. I can personally vouch for the quality of the vehicles he sources and the high level of service he offers.

Ken, if you have any questions just PM me.

Cheers,

Ken

  • 4 weeks later...

To bring this topic to a close I contacted Auto Project who seemed quite helpful but the cars are cheaper because most are Grade 3.5.

With the drop in the AUD versus the Yen and the increasing prices at the auctions for quality cars I decided to look local and have purchased one from a private buyer in QLD.

I actually think atm there are better deals to be had in OZ , especially private , due to the amount for sale and the fact that people need/want to get rid of them.

Anyway to those who replied , both on here and via PM , thankyou .

Anyone know a cheap/ good way to get an Elgrand from QLD to Perth which does not involve me driving it ?

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...