R33 Won't Start Check Engine Light

[Stealthynsa]

I'm use to skylines having a few lights before startup on dash but mine is only showing check engine and the red one below "temp?" And the hicas light are constantly on, I can hear the fuel pump working but no start, I recently changed motors from an auto s1.5 into manual 33, I'm using the auto ecu as the guy I purchased this car off took it out. I've researched and seen u can use it.

Though when I goto turn it over the motor turns but I guess I'm getting no spark, but what I'm wondering is why only the check engine light, the one below it and hicas is constantly on. Does anyone have an idea what I should be looking for?

[Stealthynsa]

ok so I checked and the car is getting fuel, I took a coil pack out with the spark plug tried starting the car and there is no spark to the plug.

is there anyone who knows what I should be doing to find the issue for no spark? I have a test light any help would be great ill be on all day so ill keep coming back and trying if someone is willing to help figure out the spark issue.

thanks

[Ben C34]

How do you know it's getting fuel?

You can take the cas off and spin by hand with ignition on and listen for injectors clicking.

If the ecu is running injectors check that there is 12v at the coils, cant remember which one.

search how to get fault codes from ecu. Just need a paper clip to bridge some wires in a plug. chances are it will tell you something.

[Odium]

So when you turn the key, it cranks and doesn't spark at all? You can't hear it wanting to fire as its cranking?

Are you sure the coilpack loom is plugged in correctly? and is compatible with the new engine?

[Stealthynsa]

ok so I used a test light on the coil plugs and one of them has power to it, but I thought when u take the coil and plug out and leave the plug in the coil u would see a spark and I didn't see one? I may be wrong on how I thought its not sparking though...

when I turn it on red ive taken the hose off the motor for the fuel and its pumping through plenty.

this motor was working fine 2 days ago before I took it out and swapped it over. the car I removed it from was a r33 gtst 4door s1.5, the car its in now is a 1997 s2

I read to tell if its a s2 motor the plugs on the back between rocker covers either bolts down with 4 bolts "s1" or is a single plugs sitting above "s2"

this motor wasn't bolts down so I take it was a s2 motor ive checked all my plugs to the motor and they all clip in fine with nothing missing.

as for the cas when I unclip it I hear I think the relay click over don't know if that helps, but ill go and spin it now and see what I hear.. guessing I have the reds on while doing this ill be back in 5 minutes

and for the fault codes I thought u need to have some equipment to plug into the car.

[Stealthynsa]

ok so I had the reds on and I was turning the cas, I heard nothing change in the sound of the injectors at all so where does this lead me?

the guy who had the car before me said he was running a haltech ecu and no afm. looking at the ecu I noticed the orange wire was cut and taped together I looked it up and read it was an injector wire so I plugged them back together im wondering if he has cut or removed anything else from the ecu maybe?

and the engine just turns cant hear any sound of it wanting to fire up, I also noticed all my fuses inside have power except "10a starter indicator" tried researching what this is for but I only get whats its called so no help there.

I used the test light and my injectors have power, but when I spin the cas I get no response. I unplug the cas whilst reds are on and I hear a change on that side of the motor and plug it in I hear the same noise but once again I spin it and nothing

Edited December 31, 2013 by Stealthynsa

[Ben C34]

That leaves you up shit Creek at this point. The fact the previous owner has done some funky wiring is going to make it very difficult for an Internet diagnosis.

When checking for spark you beed to have the thread of the spark plug touching the metal of the engine. then turn cas .

[Stealthynsa]

ok well I just have to run upto repco so ill try it when I get back in 20minutes, thanks

[Stealthynsa]

ok so what ive done it used the original cas from my old motor and now im getting spark and injector pulse, the only thing is the cas on my new engine has the half moon, but the cas that is working has a straight cut through it, is the quick fix just to cut the old harness plug to the cas and wire it to the new harness?

which im hoping will get the cas that came with the motor to work?

[GTSBoy]

The difference between old and new CAS is that the wiring is swapped. Do a search for threads here that detail the changes.

[Stealthynsa]

I noticed the wires are just back the front, im trying to search but I cant find a post dedicated to this would really appreciate it if someone could post a link and lead me to the right post. thanks

[Stealthynsa]

ive looked and found people talking about swapping the pins on the ecu, but I don't know what ones to swap and I don't want to screw it up.

according to cas plug from top to bottom if plugged in reads... 1 = black, 2 = white, 3 = blue, 4 = blue with yellow.

could someone tell me what plugs to swap on the ecu to reverse the wiring or an easier way with the plug itself.

Edited December 31, 2013 by Stealthynsa

[Ben C34]

cant you remove the pins fron the cas plug in the loom with a scriber or something and swap them? I would try that if not cut the loom and solder it.

Glad you are making progress.

[KiwiRS4T]

Yes CAS wires are mirror image so complete reverse. If the CAS is different you may have different igniter system for coils. If you could find someone in your area (with a few more clues than me) they could probably spot the problems after a quick look.

[Stealthynsa]

ok for an update im happy to say she kicked over and runs now, but one thing that didn't happen before I changed the motor between the cars...

ive now noticed that I have a sort of loud clicking noise as if there is no oil in the motor and the tappers are going crazy. the motor doesn't have water through it yet because I didn't have it on long enough for the thermostat to open up, and I can hear almost like duck "quack" noise coming from near the water pump.

1. im guessing the duck noise is because I need the water to run through...

2. the tapping noise is a little scary as in I wouldn't take it for a decent drive incase I screw something up..

3. the light below check engine some sort of red exhaust temp with wavey arrows ontop doesn't go out is that because theres no water to give a reading for it to disappear?

im just bolting the fan on because I had it off for the test start, im gonna let it run a little now but what do u think these new issues could be because it was a dead silent motor in my other car

[Ben C34]

Good work! Spinning the cas by hand is very usefull as yiu have learnt

Noise could be due to incorrect timing. Make sure cas is lined up as it was before. Will need to set timing with a light to make sure.

[Stealthynsa]

yes ive learnt so much from these forums and im very greatful for everyones help I really appreciate it.

could you explain to me how I check the timing with a light because that would probably be my last thing I need to do.

I just finished bolting the exhaust and tail shaft up and now just filling the gearbox, then hopefully do this timing and I can take her for a nice cruise into the next year haha