Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, threw a rod on my skyline and am in the process of a rebuild. I'm going for stock internals at this stage due to the fact I'll probably sell it for a gtr upgrade in 6 months or so when I have the money. The question I've come here to ask is, what is a safe amount of power to run through stock internals with my following mods, I really don't want to push it to it's limits, although would love to be able to make some decent power without worrying about something going bang again. If someone can help me out a bit, it would be much appreciated!

Specs are as follows

- Gtx3582r turbo, mild Steele exhaust manifold, all custom alloy piping, HDI intercooler, Greddy intake manifold with 90mm throttle body, Bosch 1000cc injectors, split fire coil packs, turbo smart 45mm hypergate wastegate, turbo smart supersonic bov, m spec alloy radiator, Apexi power FC ecu with z32 Afm and hand controller, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with dcat, walbro 500kw fuel pump, twin place ceramic clutch. And it's a series 2, 33 gtst.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436889-r33-gtst-rebuild/
Share on other sites

If you're going to sell it in six months why take a risk? Sell off all the gear you mentioned and return it to stock - you'll probably make more money that way and less chance of blowing it up.

  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies so far. At this stage, still unsure whether I want to keep it or not. Will be finding out how much it is to go down the forged track, but if its ridiculous amounts of money, I dont think its worth it unless im aiming for big power. The question is, provided the engine has a fresh rebuild, would it be able to safely handle 270-280rwkw? Thats as far as I really want to go, power wise. I bought the car for 7 grand, so I dont mind spending a bit of cash to make it reliable, so maybe forged is a good option?

Thanks for the replies so far. At this stage, still unsure whether I want to keep it or not. Will be finding out how much it is to go down the forged track, but if its ridiculous amounts of money, I dont think its worth it unless im aiming for big power. The question is, provided the engine has a fresh rebuild, would it be able to safely handle 270-280rwkw? Thats as far as I really want to go, power wise. I bought the car for 7 grand, so I dont mind spending a bit of cash to make it reliable, so maybe forged is a good option?

bit off topic but why the gtx3582 if your going for sub 300kw? or did it come with the car? Maybe try selling that off and getting something like gt/gtx 3071 will be much better to drive at that power level. That powerlevel a good stock 2nd hand motor that hasnt been rebuilt will do it no worries so a fresh one definately no problem aslong assuming things like your tune and maintance is kept up.

Hey, yeah the 3582 come with the car. And thanks, that's definitely something to consider. I've got a pair of tomei 256 poncams here to put in her aswell. With the fresh rebuild I was going to run 300+ but just unsure on how reliable that is, even with a good tune and maintenance kept up to date, I've heard many stories of idiots blowing their engines... But I kept in mind these are guys that thrash their cars redlining flat every gear. I only really drive this car on the weekend. The guy that had it before me thrashed it a bit by the looks of things, so just trying to do things right this time. I would love to go forged for that extra security and peace of mind. So nothing's set in concrete here, just need some help on what path is the wisest to go down. Thanks for the info so far.

Yeah what you say makes complete sense. I'm a little undecided whether to keep it or not. So what I'm saying is if I do rebuild it, I will probably end up keeping it for a good couple years. The main question is, what power can I aim for with stock internals that's going to be reliable? With the mods I have I can easily achieve 320+ But is that real smart?

I think its been said on this forum many times that a std rebuild engine is not always as reliable as a std factory built engine, and there are lots of people running 280-350rwkw on std engines, for how long is down to tune and maintenance and how you treat it

Went and talked to my mechanic today, who's a good friend of the family. The damage done to the block is somewhat repairable but he has also given me the advice many others on here have, and that's to just drop another rb25 in. His already found me an engine for $600 and it's in really good condition, don't ask me how he pulled that one off, because I thought they go for around $1200. His advised me that if I'm going to keep the car, to get a set of forged pistons and rods, head gasket. But also as many of you said, if I'm going to sell, drop the engine in, a tune and sell her off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...