Jump to content
SAU Community

Harness Bar...?


Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dan,

Interested in more info on your half-cage? Was it supply only or installed for that price? Weld-in or bolt-in? Can it be upgraded to a 6 point later? Any pics. We are in a similar position - want to use a harness for trackwork, but not sure about fitting a harness bar if a half cage isn't much more expensive.

On a side note, that harness bar from Trackart looks like the shoulder straps may run above horizontal for shorter drivers and/or lower seats, which isn't allowed in Cams rules.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked into harness bars about 9 months ago and ended up getting a half cage with harness bar. I found that a good harness bar was going to be $600-700, and a half cams approved cage with paperwork was a bit over $900 from Fabraications.

For the extra couple of hundred I also have roll over protection and a stiffer chassis. All my squeaks and rattles have gone. It feels like a brand new car!

where was said half cage from?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan,

Interested in more info on your half-cage? Was it supply only or installed for that price? Weld-in or bolt-in? Can it be upgraded to a 6 point later? Any pics. We are in a similar position - want to use a harness for trackwork, but not sure about fitting a harness bar if a half cage isn't much more expensive.

On a side note, that harness bar from Trackart looks like the shoulder straps may run above horizontal for shorter drivers and/or lower seats, which isn't allowed in Cams rules.

It's a weld in half cage (don't think the bolt in was a different price). Mine came out to be a bit over $1k (inc install) as I also got them to tap the holes for 6 point harnesses in both the driver and passenger seats, and had them paint the cage. It can be upgraded to a 6 point later.

Got it from Greg at Fabraications in Melbourne. He measures and bends for every car, so it fits perfectly.

Don't actually have any pictures of the cage from inside the car. I can take some on the weekend and post or email them to you if you prefer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I'd be buying Fatzmans one if I was after a harness bar!!!.

Nobody in this thread addressed the question about seat belts,,,so I thought I would.

4 point harnesses are ABSOLUTE CRAP. As fast as you can tighten the shoulder straps up,,,they are pulling the lap straps up as well,,,to the point of having the lap straps above your belly button. A frontal impact will see you basically submarining under them.

I've had the mis-fortune of driving and being a passenger with 4 points and I hated it. Upgrading from 4 to 5/6 quality points is just a crazy exercise because it means having to buy another set of belts. Buy it once and it's done.

Now as far as I'm concerned your choice between 5 and 6 points is sexual. Girls are okay because all there bits are tucked in (well they should be) and boys have to accomadate 2 gonades and the old fella. I had a 5 point in my old sports sedan and I could never get my man bits to sit comfortably. The 6 point I now run in the radical and the skyline allow me to adjust all my manhood nicely,,,one goes this side,,,one on the other and you mister,,,well you always go to the left (only poofs adjust to the right). One of the secrets to going fast is to be comfortable in the car and have all your gear in a happy place is paramount.

Cheers

Neil.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 points work fine if you have a proper seat and your harness mount points are in the correct locations. Trying to use a 4 point on a std seat or cheap race seat can be problematic

Nope have to dis-agree with you Troy,,,4 points don't stop submarining and if your running a proper seat you should use the hole provided by the manufacturer,,,thats why they go to the trouble of making a 5th hole.

Cheers

Neil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made sure when i grabbed my 5 point harness the buckle was on the waist strap so day to day can just run the 4 point. When doing motorsport events i could then use the crotch strap. With my Racetech seat and where my harnsesses are secured the thing doest ride up and with an upright seating position there is no way i am submarining. So i never even bother to use the crotch strap.

Appreciate not all installations will be the same but rather than disagreeing with you more trying to point out it is still installation specific IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 8 months later...

I'd be buying Fatzmans one if I was after a harness bar!!!.

Nobody in this thread addressed the question about seat belts,,,so I thought I would.

4 point harnesses are ABSOLUTE CRAP. As fast as you can tighten the shoulder straps up,,,they are pulling the lap straps up as well,,,to the point of having the lap straps above your belly button. A frontal impact will see you basically submarining under them.

I've had the mis-fortune of driving and being a passenger with 4 points and I hated it. Upgrading from 4 to 5/6 quality points is just a crazy exercise because it means having to buy another set of belts. Buy it once and it's done.

Now as far as I'm concerned your choice between 5 and 6 points is sexual. Girls are okay because all there bits are tucked in (well they should be) and boys have to accomadate 2 gonades and the old fella. I had a 5 point in my old sports sedan and I could never get my man bits to sit comfortably. The 6 point I now run in the radical and the skyline allow me to adjust all my manhood nicely,,,one goes this side,,,one on the other and you mister,,,well you always go to the left (only poofs adjust to the right). One of the secrets to going fast is to be comfortable in the car and have all your gear in a happy place is paramount.

Cheers

Neil.

Damn good explanation - i have to say.

Well said about the 4 point - in an emergency - if your legs have not enough support - ie : in a roll - you will submarine below the belt or come loose under the belt - better to get a 6 point and be done with it once and for all..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...