Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this in my tyre, it wasnt all the way in cos there was a plastic head, see imprint in tyre.

The bottom part looks like it was into the belt as its chewed up.

Im wondering how much rubber is left at the bottom of the hole? And when will it leak?

post-89755-0-80618000-1388382663_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-95954500-1388382692_thumb.jpg

So i can put a plug in there, but i dont want to put a hole if i dont have to.

Opinions anyone?

Oh.. and i use these tyres at Wakefield, i get about 160 down the straight.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Get it plugged. You may have <1mm of rubber sealing the hole, or it might be fine. You can't really tell, and you wouldn't want to find out at the end of the straight would you?

What GTSBoy said.

A few years ago I hit a screw a few days before going to Wakefield, did some research and ended up buying $50 plug kit (which I haven't used since) and fixed it myself. Tyre lasted until it ran out of rubber months later

In hindsight I should have just paid a tyre fitter to fix it, but in the end I still did my track day :)

get it internally patched, the plug is only as good as its installed...

I dont trust a plug until it has gone some ks and even then its in the back of my mind...

Hmmm... yeah. its a worry.

Thanks guys.

Internally patched sound pretty safe, better than a plug you say.

Sounds good.

I have lots of plugs but ill play it safe.

Stockies back on till its fixed.

:thumbsup:

I bought a plug kit years ago and have used it many times.

Once i remember my sons freind brought his car over which was making a loud banging sound and bouncing while he drove it.

Ended up being a screw driver he ran over, went in all the way, just the bent handle sticking out, the plug still fixed it, still going strong for the last 2 years.

Yeah, the plug is easy, ive got plenty, and the tools.

Used them heaps myself, as im a tradesman, ute on a building site gets a few every year.

Its just that it may not be good enough for 160kmh with hard braking and cornering at Wakefield.

Better safe than sorry i say.

And ive learned that the hard way.

I personally wouldn't take a plugged tyre on the race track, would be fine for road use though (in fact one of the cima's tyres needed a plug the other day).

plug and retire them to road use...

Best ones I know of are called a donkeys dick . Basically an internal patch with a rubber stalk in the middle you pull out through the hole . Vulcanising patch also held in place with inflation pressure and a plug to fill the hole . Dunno about good at track speeds though .

A .

Hmm... not keen to retire them for road use as they are near new.

I think further research is needed.

Oh jeez where too look, cams maybe.........

Ok found this:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=77

Answers all my questions.

New tyre is what i need. Expensive....... damn. :rant:

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
  • 2 weeks later...

old topic but at work I use the plug kit all the time (royal Canberra gold course) on the quad bikes and mowers, not that the mowers go quick, but the work quad is a 600, kinda the workshops emergency response vehicle haha, all the tyres on it have like 20 repairs, on 40 psi, I have personally been about 90kph on it, had to get a to the excavator to get his truck unboged before the stupid royal f**ks started playing golf... I have only had one plug come out before, didn't let it set before riding the quad...

  • 2 weeks later...
Best ones I know of are called a donkeys dick . Basically an internal patch with a rubber stalk in the middle you pull out through the hole . Vulcanising patch also held in place with inflation pressure and a plug to fill the hole . Dunno about good at track speeds though .

A .

Agree. I love those donkey dicks lol. 10 times better than just a plug or just a patch. You get both. Also work up an extra set of wheels and rubber for just track. Keeps good tires good and others to burn off. It's an investment. Here's a donkey dick. post-116132-13908576243971_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
    • Interesting, I've heard complete opposite on my end. Bit of a lottery I guess.
    • Getting Dangerously close to being ready to go back in the car. Rockers in with clearance castings now (and a quick check with the USA for the torque settings for the larger custom bolts) Covers and ported FAST Manifold sitting on there. Not fully tightened down as there's some clearancing required for the water pump with the earlier LS1 water pump styles. Example of the clearancing needing to be done: The body has to be ground a little but I'm struggling finding an actual piece of it. The later variant of water pump resolves the issue as the manifold was designed around it. It only came on the VZ LS1 in Australia, it got a different pulley for Gen4 motors. (it also costs $450... vs... $0).
×
×
  • Create New...