Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this in my tyre, it wasnt all the way in cos there was a plastic head, see imprint in tyre.

The bottom part looks like it was into the belt as its chewed up.

Im wondering how much rubber is left at the bottom of the hole? And when will it leak?

post-89755-0-80618000-1388382663_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-95954500-1388382692_thumb.jpg

So i can put a plug in there, but i dont want to put a hole if i dont have to.

Opinions anyone?

Oh.. and i use these tyres at Wakefield, i get about 160 down the straight.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Get it plugged. You may have <1mm of rubber sealing the hole, or it might be fine. You can't really tell, and you wouldn't want to find out at the end of the straight would you?

What GTSBoy said.

A few years ago I hit a screw a few days before going to Wakefield, did some research and ended up buying $50 plug kit (which I haven't used since) and fixed it myself. Tyre lasted until it ran out of rubber months later

In hindsight I should have just paid a tyre fitter to fix it, but in the end I still did my track day :)

get it internally patched, the plug is only as good as its installed...

I dont trust a plug until it has gone some ks and even then its in the back of my mind...

Hmmm... yeah. its a worry.

Thanks guys.

Internally patched sound pretty safe, better than a plug you say.

Sounds good.

I have lots of plugs but ill play it safe.

Stockies back on till its fixed.

:thumbsup:

I bought a plug kit years ago and have used it many times.

Once i remember my sons freind brought his car over which was making a loud banging sound and bouncing while he drove it.

Ended up being a screw driver he ran over, went in all the way, just the bent handle sticking out, the plug still fixed it, still going strong for the last 2 years.

Yeah, the plug is easy, ive got plenty, and the tools.

Used them heaps myself, as im a tradesman, ute on a building site gets a few every year.

Its just that it may not be good enough for 160kmh with hard braking and cornering at Wakefield.

Better safe than sorry i say.

And ive learned that the hard way.

I personally wouldn't take a plugged tyre on the race track, would be fine for road use though (in fact one of the cima's tyres needed a plug the other day).

plug and retire them to road use...

Best ones I know of are called a donkeys dick . Basically an internal patch with a rubber stalk in the middle you pull out through the hole . Vulcanising patch also held in place with inflation pressure and a plug to fill the hole . Dunno about good at track speeds though .

A .

Hmm... not keen to retire them for road use as they are near new.

I think further research is needed.

Oh jeez where too look, cams maybe.........

Ok found this:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=77

Answers all my questions.

New tyre is what i need. Expensive....... damn. :rant:

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
  • 2 weeks later...

old topic but at work I use the plug kit all the time (royal Canberra gold course) on the quad bikes and mowers, not that the mowers go quick, but the work quad is a 600, kinda the workshops emergency response vehicle haha, all the tyres on it have like 20 repairs, on 40 psi, I have personally been about 90kph on it, had to get a to the excavator to get his truck unboged before the stupid royal f**ks started playing golf... I have only had one plug come out before, didn't let it set before riding the quad...

  • 2 weeks later...
Best ones I know of are called a donkeys dick . Basically an internal patch with a rubber stalk in the middle you pull out through the hole . Vulcanising patch also held in place with inflation pressure and a plug to fill the hole . Dunno about good at track speeds though .

A .

Agree. I love those donkey dicks lol. 10 times better than just a plug or just a patch. You get both. Also work up an extra set of wheels and rubber for just track. Keeps good tires good and others to burn off. It's an investment. Here's a donkey dick. post-116132-13908576243971_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The Neat gears use an alternative profile, no? Something different to what normal OEM stuff is. Is the noise at all traceable to that? Reason I ask is that my CW&P are effectively past their use by bate and Neat is the obvious option.
    • Just picked up my first skyline. R34 4 door with an rb25det and manual swap. I’m in the US. It has a bunch of issues but the problem I’m chasing now is the indicator, hazards, and horn do not work. I took out the indicator relay and fuses and tested separately and they seem to be working fine. When I activate the turn signal stalk or the hazard button nothing happens, no clicking, and no dash lights. Same with the horn. What should I test next? The headlights, taillights, and brake lights work fine so I think the stalk is good.
    • RD25 neo... sorry bad joke ill see myself out
    • Sorry just googled Toyota WiLL Vi and wish that I didn't, day ruined, fark etc.
    • So mines not in yet ... which should tell you something ...   I got a set of neat gears as well, took a year to get those. Then the setup was a real tricky one, with all the changes. It seems the shims for the front diffs are in short supply and had to wait two round of custom ones. This was all done by a professional diff builder , not me/diy.   So here we are about to go into 2025 and I do finally have a built front sump / diff / gears.  Just need the mojo to pull out the engine ...   Oh as an aside on the neat gears, they have some whine, mostly on decel. Taken a bit of setup again to get that down to a street car level.    
×
×
  • Create New...