Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Series 2


Condition:

Mechanically sound, Body is average


Extra Info (ie mods/history etc etc):

Just passed pits 24DEC13 due to yellow for old oil stains on block, hicas delete bar(!) and pod filter.

Passed with everything as is including rims (rare)

Engine -

225xxx genuine kms

Original RB25 engine with 225xxx genuine kms (rare) (service and Mobil One 15w50 oil before track day 26DEC13)

Splitfire Coilpacks

Standard RB25 gearbox with Exedy HD Clutch (installed in 2011, 5000kms ago)

Apexi Pod Filter (w/ permit)

Front Mount Intercooler

3.5" Exhaust with dump pipe and cat (not offensively loud)

KKR480 china special (apparantly 450 hp if you believe it, internal wastegate sometimes doesn't fully close properly causing it to take AGES to hit boost! Just annoying because it doesn't always happen!! Sucks hard for drags but was prefect on the track)

Greddy Emanage Blue Piggy Back

Greedy E-01 Boost Controller with link cable and remote! (rare)


Suspension -

Upgraded koni inserts and unknown springs (firm but not too bad)

Hicas Delete Bar

Nismo Front Strut Tower Bar

Full Suspension alignment 22DEC13


Brakes -

Standard sumitomo 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears

Standard size rotors (good condition)

New Bendix Super Premium Pads (one track day old)

Fluid Replaced and Bleed with High Temp Super Dot 4


Wheels -

18" Nissan V35/36 rims with new Federal 595 SS 235/40/18 all round

No rubbing on track or at full lock.

Rims are in OK condition, have some marks and scratched in places.


Body -

Recent Partial Respray in original KH3 black (without clear coat at this stage).

It is an acrylic paint so it is matt black in appearance.

Respray due to sun damage from QLD and WA sun!


NOTE: I only painted the bonnet, roof, window pillar, boot lid, spoiler and rear bumper

.

Doors, front and rear quarters and front bumper are standard.

Sides have the usual carpark marks and front right quarter is dented.

I was going to remove all this before painting the rest.

This is the only major area that lets the car down.





Currently running 12psi daily and 15psi for track work.

No dyno time but at Racewars I kept up with a 350hp R33.

So i'll estimate low and say it has around 320hp.



I took it to barbs on and managed a 1.06 on the short track, if that helps at all.

I do suck at track work though. Still learning... :/





$7000 NEGOTIABLE OR SWAP

img20130325014.jpg
p1000433e.jpg
p1000445m.jpg
p1000444dx.jpg
p1000448i.jpg
img20130325017.jpg
3e9a.jpg

Contact Details:

0498 466 498

Michael



Location:

Scarborough, Perth WA


Delivery & Conditions of Delivery:

You pay moneys, you receive car.

Cash or bank cheque is acceptable.


Looking to sell to UPGRADE my car.

I will only consider swaps for a BETTER car with cash your way (obviously)

I'm open to swaps with cars standard or built.

Must have at least 250+ hp and track capable! (very important)



Currently looking for a built 32/33 GTR, 02 STI or maybe EVO.

Looking to spend around $20000 max



http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/scarborough/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-gts-t-series-2/1035138399



Thanks for looking! :0

Edited by intercpt

Just found the GTR i want to buy!

I'm motivated to sell hit me up with your best cash offer and i'll deal.

Might be negotiating a swap with cash their way so looking for offers over $4000.

Strictly no lowballs.

Worst thing I can say is no.

Cheers,

Michael

Edited by intercpt

Just so you know this is my current daily/track car.

To be honest it is not the most economical daily.
Gets 500km per tank open road driving, but kick the guts in it and bye bye fuel!
I used half a tank after 12 laps of barbs total!

The wastegate issue is extremely minor due to the bad design of a china internal wastegate.
I was going to remove turbo, weld gate shut, clean up the weld and run matching china spec external.
External wastegate is ideal for the car enthusiast! haha

Run standard boost

Daily

Run 15psi

Track it

Run standard boost

Drive it home

???

Profit

Edited by intercpt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...