Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone on SAU. I am obviously a newbie here but I look forward to improving my knowledge about these cars and starting my own project in about 8 months or so depending on funds.

After many years of to be honest, not liking skylines for the simple reason almost everyone I know praises them hard and hates everything else on the road. I respect all cars as at the end of the day its the owners choice to do what they want to their car and as long as they are happy then who cares what anyone else says. It was a hard choice in deciding which turbo car I wanted to but and do as a project over the next few years. The only problem I am having now is which Skyline to choose. I cant afford a GTR in any model so that's out right away.

I want a model that is known to be reliable, that's the main thing. I realise that all cars are different depending on who has owned them and the life they have had but which one would be my best choice. I honestly think the R33 is nice (not many people seem to like them but I do). I also like the R32 but seems a little more out dated. The R34 seems out of my price range though but is also nice.

I would like to know what other people think is the better model choice for me.

Future Plans (may help you guys help me in choosing the model I am after):

Nice paint jobs and rims.

Reliable (legal mods) power. I don't plan on any track days or drag races.

Just something comfortable to cruise around in basically that looks nice.

Looking forward to the many years ahead on this forum. I am in need of a project and this seems to be it. I have always been into my cars and at the moment haven't got something to work on and its driving me insane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436962-finally-converted/
Share on other sites

That the one I have ben leaning on. I don't mind the shape but I would prefer the series 2 model. R32 is a bit dated for me but I still like it. Seen quite a few around the 5-6k mark but like I said wont get one for about a year or so. I don't even mind buying one with a crap body as long as the engine is good.

I hear these motor seems to blow a lot of head gaskets and seals? is there a way to replace these with something with a long life. Like a steel head gasket and stuff? Sorry still learning :/

Check for accident damage, make sure gearbox doesn't crunch, diff doesn't whine, no noises in engine, no miss fires under load, check for banging in rear (diff bushes), check castor bushes, look for power steering leaks, clicking behind dash when a/c is operated.

After buying

Get run on a dyno to check for pinging and air/fuel ratios (fuel pumps are getting old)

Haha, and what should be the first? Are there any particular things I should look for when I look for one?

This is Helpful --->> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/

Thanks, That rebirthing thing seems so bloody dodgy, lol. I know a little about cars, like enough to go out and buy one but I like to know specific things to that model to look for. That read was a great help. No sure if I mentioned, I don't mind buying one where its body isn't perfect my concern is any mechanical faults as I probably couldn't fix them :(

I just rebuild a r32 gtst with my dad but I was surprised as to how easy it is to work on r32's all you need is a 10 and 12 mm spanner and your set :) but if your looking at a r32 watch out for rust as they are getting older.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...