Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah its got twin cats...... "cats"

you can see the too small cat looking objects where the cat would go, they are actually too small race mufflers i got from the states, they straight though and basically do nothing, buttttt they look pritty catty if u ask me.

yeah Micheal when race pace told me they wanted 6k+ for a mild steel twin 3 into 4...... kinda thought to myself......... "f it, im buying a tig.

cost me bugger all.... and i got a tig now too.

now to get the thing up on jezza's dyno, give her a drink of E85 and pull the lines off the acutators :yes:

  • Like 2

its easy man, everyone makes out its some big deal. get onto Tokentools buy yourself a welder. find a speedgas outlet so u can buy your own bottles and not pay rent.

set yourself up a good bench that the work peace will earth too. Make sure everything is always clean......... spark her up and lay beads. before you know it, you can tig : D

  • Like 1

yea mate, the two v bands are on outlet sides of the "cats".

theres only really 4 bends in the hole thing and 2 get used in that merge from twin 3 into 4. Everything eles is lobster backed and holyshit there was alot of cuts. The whole system is no more than 5mm off the floor pan of the car, its as tight up as it can be.

So everytime i came across an area i could pick it up a few mm here and there id lobster back it so it all stayed as close as possible...... ground clearance, i like my car low. : D

all the pipe work, the 2 normal flanges, and the 4 bends i got off Jez his got contacts :D

the V bands and the 2 "cats" came from summit in the states

The mufflers AES

all up cost, around $1400 including, tig consumables. 1 bottle of Gas, and Re-flecta Gold heat tape to go on the floor pan where the exhaust runs..... just so i dont any fire issues

I got a HKS Super Dragger rear cannon which is 8" round, cut it up and opened it out to 4" using rolled SS perforated sheet wrapped with inox and packed it with GTB with one end of the SS perf tube slipped over the 4" pipe but not welded to allow for growth

Then headed over to Windsor exhaust where I got a twin 3" or 3.5" ( I can't believe I forgot wht size it is :( )with twin 5" bodied cats ( yes real working cats :) ) into single 4" mid muffler through to my backyard jobby rear muffler, all in coated mild steel cause I believe mild steel is quieter then SS as it lets the sound out the whole way instead of just out the rear end, its just what I believe doesn't mean I'm right :D

Deano, nice work, where you joined the two 3" pipes into the single 4" is that two 90deg bends welded together then a 4" hole cut in and 4" pipe welded onto it ?

What sort of coin is that gold tape worth? I have a spot where the front pipes get close to the body.... and melted my carpet :\ haha

I got some of the silver version for around $40 for 24" x 24" for where my exhaust gets a bit close to the surge tank, I have some left over if you want it and if its enough :)

Most motor bike shops have some stuff that will happily live touching the exhaust, they use it for the plastic flaring when it is to close to the exhaust

cheers mick, the merge into the 4inch is 2 30deg bends notched i basicly drew it on the ground the shape and width i wanted the two pipes to be apart. than eyed em off the pic i drew onto the pipework..... than chop chop.

than sqeezed down the 4inch so it was 3inch at the very end and welded it out.

when u look up the 4inch into the where the 3 3inch pipes are merging, you can see a straight line right though the bend doesnt really affect the flow...... one way or the other the exhaust is heading in that direction and theres plenty of room for it.

also gotta remember as the exhaust cools down it doesnt need as much area. hence 3inch into 4inch i feel is a good combo, the 3inch gives you ground clearance and also heaps of flow in the hot parts of the exhuast. Its also quieter.

Mild is quieter than stainless but also a deeper note, so it makes more drowny sounds. Stainless is also lighter than mild, less dense.

not that i care to much about the weight, but all in all its not really that heavy for what it is. ill just have to run 1 extra psi of boost to compensate. hahahaha

the gold stuff piggaz was about $110 bux from the states for a 600mm x 600mm sheet...... thats 1 full sheet in that pic

Edited by Deano 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...