Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there,

my series 1 stagea is sitting at stock height and has 18inch wheels.... i noticed it has the floating feel when driving, the rear tends to float over bumps and gives the feeling that its following any grooves or bumps or ditches in the road... i had similar thing in the past with my commodore wagon and a hilux but am told its because they are light in the rear end...

is there anything i can do to try and sort the issue, i do not want to put coilovers in can't afford and i dont want to lower...

First thing to look at would be your rear dampers. If they're old/worn-out then they will definitely make the rear end feel floaty. If they check out to be good, then the next step would be to inspect the UCA and LCA bushes. After 15 years the stock items will be on their way out.

It is a wagon after all, and is built with a large empty box at the back. On my old worn set of tyres, getting down to a quarter tank of fuel was like an arcade drift game...

something other than worn tires is causing that.

thanks for the info, its had an alignment and is on brand new tyres...not sure of profile size, i will get the dampers and bushes checked out this week.......as for replacement ones if it is the scenario what kind of price range would i be looking at?

you dont need to lower your car, a stock high ride height is fine and shouldnt feel dangerous.

take it to pedders or somewhere that will do a full check testing shocks and componants.

theywill try and sell you everyting pedders under the sun but just get the check done and go from there.

Just my 2c, when I had a pedders 28 point inspection, they missed everything wrong with the suspension. When I paid $120 for a reputable workshop to do an inspection they came up with a very very thorough list (also more than the suspension). Most opinions on pedders are about as flattering.

*** However, I should add that I did not agree with everything on the comprehensive list. I also made more cost effective repairs eg, the workshop wanted to replace the entire strut and spring assembly just to replace the shock. I replaced the shocks myself.

I guess my experience was almost the opposite. I knew something (or several things) was wrong in the suspension and pedders didn't pick up on them. - as opposed to workshops usually racking up unnecessary repairs.

yeah get what your saying zoomzoom... i would go tomorrow and buy a set of coilovers if i could believe me and i think if our 2nd child wasn't so close to due date i would... but it sucks the floating when i am driving on my own in car but once there is a little weight from family being car its almost non existent.... and i can't really lower the car at the moment with my wife so close u know

Lowering the car isn't going to make any difference. Stock height is not causing the problem.

Yes it does , lowering the car puts constant pressure on the strut and pre- loads the suspension , its a short term cheap fix without replacing stock struts .

Like i said , this fixed my problem and very well .

Now i run Bilstiens with Tein lowering springs actually works better for street ride and will outlast any coilover .

Then again coilovers might be your best option to keep stock ride height ?

Bad advice going to pedders ……...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that's a superb price and ther is no way you will over capitalise on you investment.  As to the bracket, again just use the passenger side seat  bracket ( obviously reversed ) as a sample to reshape it and in this case, TIG it back together.
    • Thanks for that.... If only I could do something once and be happy with that, like some people do....
    • I had no transmission at all so I managed to find a big box manual gearbox from an R34 GTT for an insanely good price in EU. I converted it to push type which cost more than the transmission almost, with parts from Amayama! These engines are very strong and can put out decent power with a properly sized turbo. You can save on money from parts like pistons and rods, and invest those in the transmission and other parts. I suggest you join the RB20 Enthusiasts facebook group, plenty of info and almost daily posts there about 20DE/DET/Neo+T builds. (I hope I'm not breaking any forum rules by mentioning third party platforms, just trying to help the buddy out)
    • Yeah, having tried all of those methods including BBQ+recipro/hacksaw, I ended up buying a bush press kit under $150 that works well, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355967727167?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=sfmmuhxgqhm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It basically has a range of pushers and cups with threaded rods between to press out a range of large bushes. The problem with any sawing solution is minimising damage to the subframe side, although it probably needs a quick sand afterwards no matter what solution you try due to damage
    • Hi. Thanks for the answer. I do not have instagram 😄 I too considering turbo the RB20DE NEO 🙂 But i think i upgrade the gearbox first or at least buy new.  
×
×
  • Create New...