Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi I just finished my installation of my holset hx35w on my rb25neo.running it top mount an externally gated just finished if off today an I have a problem it starting to blowing smoke I had the turbo checked over before it was installed it had next to no bearing play front an rear wheels were in excellent condition no scratching or chips we had the turbo apart an it had no signs wot so ever that it had oil being blown out of it now since I ran the car for about a hour an an pulled of my air intake an intercooler pipping an wipped it with a paper towel an there was no signs of oil residue any were I can't work out why it's blowing smoke wan it was installed I made up new 19mm oil return lines but as for the oil feed I'm still using the original solid rb25 oil feed line any help would be appreciated cheers

post-119725-0-42993700-1388648362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437027-need-help-on-holset-hx35w-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

first off as for the smoke at idle its minimal to none that I give it a hit it blows a lot for about 2 seconds than dies down to almost nothing again I unscrewed the o2 sensor an it did have a little oil on it....

as for the next question I believe it's a journal bearing an I was goin to buy another oil feed line tomorrow an see if that helps it at all

I will get a new oil feed line tomorrow but could it be that the oil return line is to small from wot I've red up these turbos do need a pretty large oil return line... is there anyone else that has dun one of these turbo conversations lately

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

  • Like 1

yea from wot I've red up using the holsets u tend to need to use much larger oil return lines... wot rubber line do u use as a oil return

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

that's wot I made up aswell a solid 19mm steal tube an a 90 degree bend using a rubber hose at the block

Yeah if u only blow rear seals it will only leak into exhuast. Just out of interest what size return did u read holsets need?

every were I read just recommended using a larger return just due to the size of the turbo

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

This is the best advice. Stao knows his turbo problems, and has seen quite a few bush core highflows fail from lack of oil flow. The stock banjo needs to be drilled out at the very least. I go 2.5-3mm usually, drilling through the .9mm stock restrictor.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I have seen a bush turbos fail within 50k's from similar stock restrictor issues. At least check the shaft play both ends of the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...