Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi I just finished my installation of my holset hx35w on my rb25neo.running it top mount an externally gated just finished if off today an I have a problem it starting to blowing smoke I had the turbo checked over before it was installed it had next to no bearing play front an rear wheels were in excellent condition no scratching or chips we had the turbo apart an it had no signs wot so ever that it had oil being blown out of it now since I ran the car for about a hour an an pulled of my air intake an intercooler pipping an wipped it with a paper towel an there was no signs of oil residue any were I can't work out why it's blowing smoke wan it was installed I made up new 19mm oil return lines but as for the oil feed I'm still using the original solid rb25 oil feed line any help would be appreciated cheers

post-119725-0-42993700-1388648362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437027-need-help-on-holset-hx35w-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

first off as for the smoke at idle its minimal to none that I give it a hit it blows a lot for about 2 seconds than dies down to almost nothing again I unscrewed the o2 sensor an it did have a little oil on it....

as for the next question I believe it's a journal bearing an I was goin to buy another oil feed line tomorrow an see if that helps it at all

I will get a new oil feed line tomorrow but could it be that the oil return line is to small from wot I've red up these turbos do need a pretty large oil return line... is there anyone else that has dun one of these turbo conversations lately

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

  • Like 1

yea from wot I've red up using the holsets u tend to need to use much larger oil return lines... wot rubber line do u use as a oil return

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

that's wot I made up aswell a solid 19mm steal tube an a 90 degree bend using a rubber hose at the block

Yeah if u only blow rear seals it will only leak into exhuast. Just out of interest what size return did u read holsets need?

every were I read just recommended using a larger return just due to the size of the turbo

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

This is the best advice. Stao knows his turbo problems, and has seen quite a few bush core highflows fail from lack of oil flow. The stock banjo needs to be drilled out at the very least. I go 2.5-3mm usually, drilling through the .9mm stock restrictor.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I have seen a bush turbos fail within 50k's from similar stock restrictor issues. At least check the shaft play both ends of the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...