Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want serious info about doing this swap PM a bloke called Simon, I think his user name is Simon-R32, he put an RB25det neo in his R32 and he really helped me when I was looking at everything I'd need for the conversion. In the end the hardest thing wasn't the wiring (he can tell you how to get by pretty easily) but there were a lot of mechanical things that needed changing if you wanted to run the RB25 gearbox with it, and trust me, you do.

There are quite a lot of videos of his car on YouTube if you search RB25 R32. In the videos it's a green colour from memory

I am going to slightly disagree with you RBrennan25.

Changing the speedo sender to a mechanical one is quite easy. All you need is a vice, hacksaw and vice grips and some loctite if you wish.

Go to Nissan and tell them you want a D21 Navara mechanical speedo sender PN 32702-02G17

There is a guide in the net for this, it took me about half an hour to knock over, pretty easy. Not to say it might not be difficult for some but with a guide and a cando attitude anyone should be able to do it :)

I am going to slightly disagree with you RBrennan25.

Changing the speedo sender to a mechanical one is quite easy. All you need is a vice, hacksaw and vice grips and some loctite if you wish.

Go to Nissan and tell them you want a D21 Navara mechanical speedo sender PN 32702-02G17

There is a guide in the net for this, it took me about half an hour to knock over, pretty easy. Not to say it might not be difficult for some but with a guide and a cando attitude anyone should be able to do it :)

Rather true, but try asking them for an R32 manual tail piece, which has been slightly shortened to weld an RB25 yoke onto it. Not quite as easy if you're not the greatest on the tools

Also apparently an R32 cross member will only line up with 2 chassis bolts when used with an RB25 gearbox, which will hold but isn't exactly safe as houses

There were probably a few other issues but this is going back a couple of years

I agree with everything said, im doing this conversion to a drift only car, never will be registered so im not worried about down time, dont need everything working (like speedo).. this has just been a learning thing... going to a v8 would have been a lot easier then mucking about with all the electricals though.....

So far im running the rb20 looms and have not changed any pinouts however i have read that two pinouts on ecu for injectors needs swapped which i havent looked into yet, however as mentioned a lot of useless info out there. also a lot of good info so ALOT of research is needed.

I went and talked to some people today to see what it would cost to get the swap done and I was told around 5 grand. So I would be cheeper to do it myself but what the guy said is if I messed up or got stuck and took it to a place to fix it would cost more because they would have to go over all the work and find what's wrong, so save up and do the swap or sink that money into the motor already in the car talk about too many options

Yeah exactly, it cost nothing for my engine and ive prob spent 1500$ on mine (roughly) and its almost good but a massive pain and if i needed it running perfect to engineer/register then i would be in trouble... youd get more then enough power out of the rb20 for street.

Or save and buy a GTR :P wish i did that then the amount of money i spent on the r32 and r34 gtt.... should of bought a r34 GTR straight out :S live and learn haha

  • 3 years later...
On 3/11/2014 at 1:22 AM, RBrennan25 said:

If you want serious info about doing this swap PM a bloke called Simon, I think his user name is Simon-R32, he put an RB25det neo in his R32 and he really helped me when I was looking at everything I'd need for the conversion. In the end the hardest thing wasn't the wiring (he can tell you how to get by pretty easily) but there were a lot of mechanical things that needed changing if you wanted to run the RB25 gearbox with it, and trust me, you do.

There are quite a lot of videos of his car on YouTube if you search RB25 R32. In the videos it's a green colour from memory

Tried to get advice from this Simon guy and instead was met with "you're better off going to a professional than trying to get help off the net." Such great advice from someone who's done the swap himself but can't be bothered to help others. 

Under law 69 of the forum act any member who is asked a question must reply with a very detailed time consuming response. Otherwise the whole system of people demanding / expecting answers to make their life easy is ruined. Then what's the point?

  • Like 2
On 03/03/2018 at 8:04 AM, bakwoods said:

Tried to get advice from this Simon guy and instead was met with "you're better off going to a professional than trying to get help off the net." Such great advice from someone who's done the swap himself but can't be bothered to help others. 

Probably gets bombarded with the same questions over and over again that's why he is like that

On 3/2/2018 at 4:17 PM, Leroy Peterson said:

This thread is 4yrs old. No one is obliged to help you with anything.
If you're desperate for the info, prior research and asking for info is worthwhile.

That's the problem, there is no information that can be traced back to either a DIY, any form of a tutorial or even a list of Q&A's regarding the challenges involved in the swap. It's like "screw you, you're on your own." I never said anyone was obliged, but as a forum, you'd anticipate that people are willing to help each other out, not brush off anyone with a legitimate question. It's no surprise that no one can get their questions answered, dicks like you.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/9/2018 at 11:00 PM, Ben C34 said:

I don't understand why you think people should or would be inclined to help just because it is a forum.

 

For that very reason, its a forum. The basis is to help the community not ignore requests. Idiots.

1 hour ago, bakwoods said:

For that very reason, its a forum. The basis is to help the community not ignore requests. Idiots.

f**king really?  You really want a step by step Ikea plan laid out for you?  How the hell do you think those of us who have managed the swap (including me) managed it without such a thing?  Must have been by pre-planning, thinking, application......and plenty of time spent with the wiring diagrams.  Oh, by the way, it was 2 years between me doing the conversion and getting the air-con working.  So, you know, good luck with that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...