Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm hoping someone can answer a simple question for me on BBK's for an R34 GTR running LMGT4's Omori Special Editions 18x9.5 +12 Offset.

I'm looking at upgrading the brakes but am a little stumped on the right size rotor to run and number of pots. I'm interested in getting the Brembo GT's but I'm positive the 355mm front and 330mm rears recommended by Brembo can definitely be increased, but I just don't know by how much and what ratio.

I.e 365mm front with 6 pots and 350mm rear with 4 pots or 365mm front with 6 pots and 345mm rear with 4 pots, etc. (just using these as an example)

Can I safely go bigger than 365 up the front (say 380mm) and then what's the best option for the rear?

I'd really like to hear from someone with some experience with these brakes, what works best and how big can I go safely with these wheels. I'm also not into using spacers, or fancy brackets etc to make them work.

While I mention Brembo here, I'm not adverse to Alcon or AP, but am kind of keen to keep Brembo brakes on the beast.

Hope someone can help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437179-right-bbk-for-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

Lets call it spirited driving and the occasional track day. The standard brakes are not bad, but I've changed rotors, different pads and they just aren't up to the task anymore. The car will also be getting a big upgrade in power in the near future, so I want to future proof it some.

As I'm overseas at the moment I can purchase items a lot cheaper then back in Australia, so I might as well make the most of it while I'm away.

Regardless of the use, I'm looking for a decent brake kit to look after 500+ awkws

Thanks Lidz,

Took a good look at that forum and it provided an interesting read. Just wish I knew if the Brembo GT calipers were similar dimensions to the Alcon ones. Anyone have any experience with the Brembo GT kits?

Ok let me try a different approach...

Does anyone have experience with the Brembo GT kit running 365mm rotors up front with LMGT4's 18x9.5 +12 offset? If so what clearance do you have between the caliper and the wheel?

Hope someone can help.

The guys at Croydon Racing Developments run the Brembo GT kit on their R34 GTR with 18" TE37s.

The LMGT4 is a very similar designed rim so clearance wont be an issue.

Their car has (im pretty sure) 8 pot fronts with 376 or 380mm rotors and they sit well.

I have a set of Alcon 6pot calipers from a Daytona LeMans Prototype on a 375mm rotor. Dummy fitted up, they just squeeze inside a 17x9.5 +12 TE37 with about 5mm of clearance radial wise. Plenty of caliper clearance behind the spokes.

The alcons are also a larger body caliper compared to the Brembo GT, so that coupled with a smaller diameter, eg 365mm, you should have no problems fitting it into an 18" LMGT4.

Also, if you ask nicely, Im pretty sure Matt (God_speed) on here is running the GT kit under 18" LMGT4s. I could be wrong.

Hope that helps.

Mate, I can pretty much guarantee there will be plenty of clearance with LMGT4s, my LMs are exactly that size 18 x 9.5 +12 offset

im running an evo 10 kit with 350 (355mm) brembo kit on the front and there is still heaps of room. Piggaz also used them on his R33 over his Alcon big brake kit and im fairly certain he still had heaps of room as well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Try Race Technologies, I run the GT kit 355 fronts and 345 rears on my Supra and the alcon 365 and 350 on my 34 Gtr, both are a good set up and probably the best money you could spend. The supra runs 18 inch Drifteks which i think are a knockoff nismo? they clear by a mile. The alcons are under Enkei Rpf1. I know the Brembo 380mm rotors template wouldnt fit under the driftek but have heard they go under TE37s,

Really appreciate all the information guys, it's good to hear they will fit.

C4a0s If you could provide the diagram and dimensions that would be superb!

oops... didnt see this thread for a while..

PM your email and i'll send them to u tonite?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...