Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help R34 Issue

Werkle
 Share

Recommended Posts

Werkle Apprentice

Werkle

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I am new to this forum and would greatly appreciate any help.

The Story...

About 3 weeks ago I bought an R34 GTT 2 door... finally... car seemed in good nick, I have done bout 1500km's since and is my daily driver.

Mods:

POD filter

cat back exhaust.

(As purchased)

Now the issue I started having was the engine light, TCS, and slip lights intermittently coming on, they would come on and go away on restart. Sometimes I wouldn't see them for days. After a search around the forums I put it down to coil packs as the car would have a very slight miss occasionally when the lights where on but apart from that it ran fine minus a little power. Now to the issue at hand, a couple of days go I went to the shops and spent about half an hour there, once I came back to the car it didn't want to start. It would crank about 3 times as usual but it was like it just barely wouldn't start if that makes sense. It would almost fire but just not enough. I let it sit for about 20 mins after cranking it a few times and hey presto... started like normal(the engine,TCS and slip lights stayed on for the drive but car seemed to drive normally). Got home and turned it off and started it again within a minute or two and no problems 3 cranks and off she went no engine light nothing. let it sit fir an hour or so and again no problem starting and no lights on the dash, so I went for a drive for about 45 mins or so and stopped to get some food, again car started no problem. This morning on a cold start as per normal no issues, drove half way to work and stopped to get a coffee(normal routine) came out and again car won't fire. So I let it sit for about 20 minutes and it started like normal...hmmmm... drove to work(engine,TCS and slip lights on) car drove fine. Went into work and opened up, came back out and started the car (no more than 2 minutes since the car was turned off) no problems. so at lunch I started the car again and let it idle for about ten minutes again no issues. Turned the car off and about 2 minutes after tried to start it and it didn't want to start again.... car now stuck at work :(

I'm a noob to R34's so any help would be appreciated. The car is in Kensington VIC if anyone can help it would be great because I don't have a car at the moment and unfortunately I do need a car.

Thanks in advance to anyone that helps.

Pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437213-please-help-r34-issue/
Share on other sites
Werkle Apprentice

Werkle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi that was the first port if call i checked the main battery wiring and earths , all looks good as an uodate the car decided to start and run for a bit today then died and started again for a bit and died again. When it runs it runs perfectly as in I can put a cup of coffee on the motor and wouldnt spill a drop (smooth). Luckely I managed through a friend of a friend to have it scanned today while it was running and it came up with low voltage, ignition and cas faults. I have a new battery for it comming tomorrow as the current battery doesnt want to charge. Will see if that changes anything.

In the mean time if anyone would have a cas sensor to suit the rb25det neo that I could borrow to see if that fixes the issue before buying one I would realy appreciate it as my funds are low at the moment and I need to get the car going asap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • Sxnjeet
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Sxnjeet · Posted

      yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...