Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My car has over 400rwkw's (closer to 500), the car is only really used for street duties with some hard launching (looking to take it down the drag strip soon).

My question is how much stronger is the standard front centre diff compared to lets say a nismo pro 1.5 way or a quaife 1.5 way?

Is it worth changing?

How much power can the standard front diff take?

I dont want it taking out my bottom end or new sump if it goes...

Thanks

Darren

More to the point, with near 500rwkw it must walk all over the place coming on boost ??

An LSD will not only help get the power down, but help keep it straight.

Obviously they are stronger, not sure how long a standard front diff will last at that power.?

I havn't really heard of anyone blowing one.

I have seen at least one (maybe two) reports of failed front diffs so

1. it's not very common

but

2. it does happen.

If I had the money I would get a Quaife front diff - those who have done it seem really happy with the improvements.

A Series 3 diff is no different to anything else, they will break if you put sticky rubber on and that's what it comes down too. How much traction you have or don't as to what you will or won't break.

I broke mine with 370rwkw and drag radials after about 20 passes (no wheelspin on launch 8200rpm), that said it had done 300+ launches before that on street tyres.

The joy of a front diff breaking is that it can, and in my case, take the sump with it which is a motor out job to fix.

From memory, everything. Nothing was reusable and the pic i remember seeing had chunks of metal everywhere :)

So just got a Nismo centre to replace it. Grip so far improved on street tyres was worth it and should've done it sooner.

I'll find out if anyone can remember more specifically what broke (if it was one bit or everything).

Regardless of what brakes on the standard one, you need an after market with that power and hitting the strip.

Quafies seem to be pick of the bunch ATM, but I have an OS giken 2 way which works a treat everywhere. What ever you get you'll love it, grip is amazing.

And if you're not getting grip now until 4th ? What sort of plastic Tyres are you running

How is the 2way coming into corners? Not an under steer pig?[/quote<br /><br />Yeah now that you mention it, I did used to get a bit if under steer on really sharp corners, hairpins Etc but no more than my previous GTR with stAndard diff.<br /><br />since installing the "Full Race 4wd controller" I don't get any now. <br /><br />But yeah maybe 2way is not the best option for most.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...