Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My car has over 400rwkw's (closer to 500), the car is only really used for street duties with some hard launching (looking to take it down the drag strip soon).

My question is how much stronger is the standard front centre diff compared to lets say a nismo pro 1.5 way or a quaife 1.5 way?

Is it worth changing?

How much power can the standard front diff take?

I dont want it taking out my bottom end or new sump if it goes...

Thanks

Darren

More to the point, with near 500rwkw it must walk all over the place coming on boost ??

An LSD will not only help get the power down, but help keep it straight.

Obviously they are stronger, not sure how long a standard front diff will last at that power.?

I havn't really heard of anyone blowing one.

I have seen at least one (maybe two) reports of failed front diffs so

1. it's not very common

but

2. it does happen.

If I had the money I would get a Quaife front diff - those who have done it seem really happy with the improvements.

A Series 3 diff is no different to anything else, they will break if you put sticky rubber on and that's what it comes down too. How much traction you have or don't as to what you will or won't break.

I broke mine with 370rwkw and drag radials after about 20 passes (no wheelspin on launch 8200rpm), that said it had done 300+ launches before that on street tyres.

The joy of a front diff breaking is that it can, and in my case, take the sump with it which is a motor out job to fix.

From memory, everything. Nothing was reusable and the pic i remember seeing had chunks of metal everywhere :)

So just got a Nismo centre to replace it. Grip so far improved on street tyres was worth it and should've done it sooner.

I'll find out if anyone can remember more specifically what broke (if it was one bit or everything).

Regardless of what brakes on the standard one, you need an after market with that power and hitting the strip.

Quafies seem to be pick of the bunch ATM, but I have an OS giken 2 way which works a treat everywhere. What ever you get you'll love it, grip is amazing.

And if you're not getting grip now until 4th ? What sort of plastic Tyres are you running

How is the 2way coming into corners? Not an under steer pig?[/quote<br /><br />Yeah now that you mention it, I did used to get a bit if under steer on really sharp corners, hairpins Etc but no more than my previous GTR with stAndard diff.<br /><br />since installing the "Full Race 4wd controller" I don't get any now. <br /><br />But yeah maybe 2way is not the best option for most.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...