Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

Good luck mate, im sure your going to get near that 12!! I wont be going to race, no need to as i cracked the 12, so unless i do some more mods, i will be holding out.

Actually tomorrow night will be good if the heavens dont open up. The Ford XR8/6T guys are racing the LS1 guys, there is about 30 of them, should be fun.

Maybe I could try to beat some of those slow XR6Ts

When I raced last time, I spoke to a couple of guys with brand new XR8s and one had a great big blower hanging off the side of his donk and pumped out 330 kw at the wheels, but only just cracked a 12.9!!

Nothing like getting off the line clean!

BASS OUT

Had a shit night.

Couldn't get off the line.

Damn new clutch.

Couldn't even break the 13 second barrier.

Have a bif flat spot between 4000 and 5500 rpm cos I didn't reset the computer after putting in the octane booster.

Axel tramp was my enemy last night also.

Banging the back end at each gear change, even into 4th.

Last night sucked for me.

BASS OUT (Off to get some pineapples and some suspension work)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...