Jump to content
SAU Community

Any One Interested In Making A 350Gt Turbo Kit Fo Me

ff_driftz

By ff_driftz,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted
  On 25/01/2014 at 10:27 AM, xALmoN said:

why you knocking on engineers for? =(

Lol, only the kind that need to keep telling everyone that they are...

  On 25/01/2014 at 12:50 PM, scotty nm35 said:

I don't think anyone would be crazy enough to mess with a chemical engineer Alvin.

QFT. :woot:

ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 24/01/2014 at 8:49 AM, PN-Mad said:

Pull your head in mate. I'm interested in trying to find a solution to your pipe dream. Your talking with Scotty, who if there isn't something he doesn't know about vq turbos, it's not worth knowing, and I myself have done a VQ35 turbo into an awd stagea.

The turbo is only a small part of an overall kit, so why not consider using the pipe work and other parts. What turbo are you intending to put on it? Single or twins? Gt30, 35, 42? Re you going to buy an off the shelf item, or modify it yourself? That constricts the location and packaging.

Are you building a motor? The stock vq35 has notable flaws when using forced induction. But I'm sure you can engineer your way around that...

holset VGT's are fairly cheap, some manifolds etc may need an engine out sonario (scotty tells me), if there could be another approach lets say we keep the standard manifolds and try an alternate location for the turbo, we agree on increased pipe length for driver and discharge medium, but if a VGT turbo is an option this will decrease the loss,

Weak points of the VQ35 is the conrods? from what i could find they give out arround the 500hp mark.

If the motor is kept standard a 300 rwkw mark should be a reasonable target to aim for...?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Plenty of VQ35's blow at much less, some last though. Perhaps the difference between a tune, and a good tune...

Just remember when talking US power figures, ours are often much lower.

ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 28/01/2014 at 10:33 AM, scotty nm35 said:

Plenty of VQ35's blow at much less, some last though. Perhaps the difference between a tune, and a good tune...

Just remember when talking US power figures, ours are often much lower.

The ones that blow at lower power figures, do you know what lets go?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Yup, it's rods, and the overall HP isn't that much of deal. It's about the torque. Because you can have full boost at 2200 ( my experience) the loads through the rods at slow engine speeds is the issue. Therefore steps have to be taken to reduce torque.

When comparing with US figures I found a lot of bullshit. I was massively short with my results, using the same boost, afm volts, afr, and ignition timing as other cars. I didn't want to push my set up as it was a daily car.

ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Guys, I see the issues....

In saying that i have made perliminary drawings and have sent them to STS, Garrett gearhead.. they are both showing interest in my design, my calculations with a VGT turbo show that this could be a dead end due to the rods being so weak, (with an engine rebuild (strengthen) this has potential to be a very mean engine) im looking into the rear and mid mount turbo setups now, they might be an option as the power is much more gradual.

ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 29/01/2014 at 12:19 AM, PN-Mad said:

Yup, it's rods, and the overall HP isn't that much of deal. It's about the torque. Because you can have full boost at 2200 ( my experience) the loads through the rods at slow engine speeds is the issue. Therefore steps have to be taken to reduce torque.

When comparing with US figures I found a lot of bullshit. I was massively short with my results, using the same boost, afm volts, afr, and ignition timing as other cars. I didn't want to push my set up as it was a daily car.

What setup do you run?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
  On 29/01/2014 at 8:25 PM, ff_driftz said:

im looking into the rear and mid mount turbo setups now, they might be an option as the power is much more gradual.

Nothing gradual about rear mount setups, they come on just as hard as front mount.

Seriously, you can't go past what Nissan have already designed, I know from experience the factory manifold is much easier than an STS kit, or GT35 in the boot. Just imagine the headaches you will have pumping the oil return back to the engine... I don't need to, I have already been there. :/

  On 29/01/2014 at 8:44 PM, ff_driftz said:

What setup do you run?

He went back to NA because he's limp.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I ran a HKS z33 single turbo kit (gt3037) modified to fit a awd stagea.

It gave me a 70 kW gain at 6psi. It was tuned very safe, and tuned to reduce low range torque.

ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 29/01/2014 at 11:27 PM, PN-Mad said:

I ran a HKS z33 single turbo kit (gt3037) modified to fit a awd stagea.

It gave me a 70 kW gain at 6psi. It was tuned very safe, and tuned to reduce low range torque.

The kit looks very nice, why did you revert to na?

  On 29/01/2014 at 11:23 PM, scotty nm35 said:

Nothing gradual about rear mount setups, they come on just as hard as front mount.

Seriously, you can't go past what Nissan have already designed, I know from experience the factory manifold is much easier than an STS kit, or GT35 in the boot. Just imagine the headaches you will have pumping the oil return back to the engine... I don't need to, I have already been there. :/

They dyno graphs that i could find for the people who do run front mount coolers with rear mount turbos they seem to be getting happy around 4.5k mark and the car revs 6.5k it is not much of a power band, with this type of engine as scotty says once turbo they should spool up nice and early (3037) (depending on turbo ofcourse)

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I went back because I wanted a track car, and this was not it. It was a Mummy trolley. So I bought a very modified 180sx which I track. There was also a couple of things that annoyed me about running the turbo. Mainly the inability to run closed loop, and the tuning of gearbox pressures.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...