Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all having fuel pump problems again my 040 in tank pump has started being really noisy hot or cold and wont pass 15 psi boost this will eventually drop off more and pump will die. (this is what happened last time)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414906-got-the-buzzing-fuel-pump-problem-r33-gtst/

its barely a year old, ive spoken to the mechanic that fitted the last one and the tank wasnt dirty and ive never run the tank below a qtr. the day it failed ( i noticed the noise) was stinking hot but i only drove it for 15 mins and the fuel was up near half way.

i guess my question is why are these pumps failing? i thought of bosch as a good brand but i will be switching to walbro now as im not spending $300 a year on pumps.

(also i believe there was another sau member who was chewing through bosch pumps and never had a problem after going walbro)

anyways thanks for any feedback or suggestions.

Edited by Nii San
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437561-bosch-040-failed-1-year-old/
Share on other sites

The main issue with the 040 is the integrated filter that can't be cleaned. I have heard of these being hacked out, but then you have no pre-filtering before the pump, which will shorten it's life considerably.

I agree, the Walbro 255 pumps are very good at what they do, as long as you get a genuine one. The newer 400L is an amazing upgrade over nearly every other intank, but these fail quickly with e85 use, hence Walbro released the 460L e85 tolerant design, with sealed power and e85 fitting kit. Any of these will outlive the 040 if fitted with the recommended filter sock imo.

The 255's are around $100 and will flow around 300kw ethanol and 350kw petrol, the larger 400-460 (around $200) will flow 430kw on ethanol and 550 odd on petrol. Make the choice based on projected power output, as you don't want more fuel flowing around the system than you need. You might even need to look at fuel cooling if you have higher fuel flow than your engine's requirements.

Any aftermarket pump will require hard wiring to battery voltage, through a relay and fuse. (there are a few 'How to's' getting around this forum.)

If you would like me to price up some pumps from my wholesaler, drop me a PM, you might be surprised how cheap they are available. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...