Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys. I've been stalking these forums for the past fortnight reading all of the posts on the V35, so I am very new

I've got my eyes on a V35 skyline, imported from Japan and being sold by one of the local import dealers.

I haven't had a look at the car just as yet, but I was wondering if anyone can tell me if that is the stock HU?

If it isn't, will i need to buy a fascia to put a double DIN in?

I'm not too sure if I can post the link to the car here but it is. Please don't bite my head off if links arent allowed!!

Any input would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks guys

Console - $T2eC16JHJF0FFZeUkjIOBSZp5dgwKw~~48_20.J

Here is the car : http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/haberfield/cars-vans-utes/2005-nissan-skyline-sport-v35-350gt-pearl-white-manual-coupe/1026659049

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437664-buying-my-first-skyline-v35/
Share on other sites

28000 k's ??? hhmmm GL

and to answer you question, that is already an a/m stereo fitted using a double din fascia and seeing there is no dual aircon im guessing the car is a Non-premium as well.

Edited by AsM

Does the "GL" refer to the 28000km being BS? and potentially wound back?

Yup its the non premium one, i believe its advertised as the SPORT model.

Pretty much... ask them for the vin number and list it here, there are a few ppl on sau that might be able to confirm the kms

Okay I've just got off the phone with him and am having a look this weekend.

So i should record the following

1. Deregistration papers

2. VIN number

Any other recommendations..
Also, what are the dereg papers? And what if he can't produce them?

Thanks again everyone.

No way in hell is that the genuine KM's.. sorry but it just doesn't happen. If it were true, they'd be asking $25,000..

it could be genuine. You need to look at other things too - such as wear and tear of interior, rust underbody, lipped rotors, service records from Japan?, dereg certificate...

I recently sold my 33000 km genuine km PREMIUM coupe for 16 500. No way in hell would anyone buy a low km v35 coupe for $25 000 these days, the market for sellers is just shit.

I had to wait around 1 year to sell it, first genuine buyer who came around bought it, he even did a "stateroads" check (which is similar to RACV Check but more thorough) and the bloke said the car is like brand new condition..

Wow..

Thanks for the response guys. I'll ask for the original log books when I get there. Hopefully it all goes well.

Another concern is the resale. Hopefully if I want a new one, I don't have to wait a year to sell it.

I called the skyline specialist over in Rydalmere and he recommended I get the MTA to do a pre-purchase inspection. $255 well spent I believe.

I'm hoping I've got some bargaining power with paying cash... Maybe he'll throw in installing a 3 point immobiliser which I need thanks to Justcar.

I thought the immobiliser was a compliance requirement?

Yes, but they only need to have a 1 point immobiliser, whereas australian standard is 3. and justcar require a 3 point or they are not insuring me.

I've had a look at the 350z's and they are older yet still more expensive than the V35 skyline - i guess they have a better resale value

hmm.. I was under the impression the compliance required an 'australian standard' immobiliser to be fitted?? I could be wrong though, as they do have a factory immobliser which isn't good enough for compliance.

hmm.. I was under the impression the compliance required an 'australian standard' immobiliser to be fitted?? I could be wrong though, as they do have a factory immobliser which isn't good enough for compliance.

Thats what I thought. Previous threads on here say its just the insurer being a sook. Shannons insurance doesn't care cause it has compliance. Justcar wants a 3 point. And I'm stuck with them until I turn 25 too

Fair enough.. you are probably right, justcar is being difficult. mine is insured with NRMA and they make no mention in any of their PDS about requiring an additional immobilier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...