Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hei guys

Realized my stagea's speedo is reading wrong but some margin. Its showing more than im actually traveling, know that traffic is usually slower than the speed limit and even when i was driving 10 over there would still be cars passing by so I took this GPS unit to check it as they are supposed to be accurate and speedo is actually showing more than gps unit. Its like 10 over at 60 and almost 20 over at 100. When speedo is showing 120 GPS says im traveling at some 100-103 kmh...

So was wondering has anyone had similar problem or is this not that common, what causes it and yeah most important how to fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437745-calibrating-speedo/
Share on other sites

I don't have stock wheels and tyres, but they are about the standard diameter and my speedo was also reading about 10% over.

I put on of these in the car (tapped in near the dash): http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5435

BTW ADRs specify a speedo must be between 0 and 10% over actual speed....how crap is that?!?

M35's are notorious for the speedo reading high, I run 235/45/18's and they still read 10k's over at 100. I hoped the Nismo cluster would be more accurate, but it wasn't.

The ecu is reading the correct speed according to my informeter, but the speedo is still out, so I just use the informeter for accurate speed measuring.

I don't have stock wheels and tyres, but they are about the standard diameter and my speedo was also reading about 10% over.

I put on of these in the car (tapped in near the dash): http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5435

BTW ADRs specify a speedo must be between 0 and 10% over actual speed....how crap is that?!?

Hey Duncan, was it difficult to splice in & get accurate?

My speedo is approximately 10% out as well, which is a PITA for me, with 110kph limited factory cruise control :(

My ARX runs 225/55/18 as per the placard and when the spedo is at 110 the car is actually doing 103 (per my GPS)

The V36 is out by about the same. I reckon they are built like this to slow people down.

Now I figure if i run 245 45 18 as suggested above, this will reduce my rolling diameter from 2214mm down to 2129mm and throw the spedo out by another 4 kms/hour.

I figure that if I were to run 235 55 18 then at 110 on the spedo the car would be going around 105 kms an hour.

Found some Dunlop SP Sport 235/55/18 100V LM703 for a reasonable price. Anybody running these?

245 55 18 would produce about 107 kmh at 110, an error of only 3kmh but this tyre size is likely an off road tyre and if it didn't touch my plastic guards would sound like a truck anyway!

My ARX runs 225/55/18 as per the placard and when the spedo is at 110 the car is actually doing 103 (per my GPS)

The V36 is out by about the same. I reckon they are built like this to slow people down.

Now I figure if i run 245 45 18 as suggested above, this will reduce my rolling diameter from 2214mm down to 2129mm and throw the spedo out by another 4 kms/hour.

I figure that if I were to run 235 55 18 then at 110 on the spedo the car would be going around 105 kms an hour.

Found some Dunlop SP Sport 235/55/18 100V LM703 for a reasonable price. Anybody running these?

245 55 18 would produce about 107 kmh at 110, an error of only 3kmh but this tyre size is likely an off road tyre and if it didn't touch my plastic guards would sound like a truck anyway!

You're right Chris, the tyre set up I have suggested won't solve the issue on an AR-X, as they run a larger rolling dia than the RS/RX/AXIS. Do they use a different Speedo cluster?

Using a tyre size guide, should allow you to plug in easily available tyre dimensions, and reduce the error.

Blek it was pretty straightforward to install, the wiring is actually marked on the rear of the cluster so I just intercepted the signal on the way into the dash. AFAIK in most of these cars the signal goes from gearbox to dash and then everywhere else (eg ECU and cruise control) so the dash is a good place to intercept.

The only thing to be aware of is that the link I posted is a kit, so you will need a soldering iron and some patience to put it together.

I'd normally prefer to just change tyre size (am doing that in the leaf ATM to fix the same issue) but that's expensive if you aren't already due for new tyres anyway.

You're right Chris, the tyre set up I have suggested won't solve the issue on an AR-X, as they run a larger rolling dia than the RS/RX/AXIS. Do they use a different Speedo cluster?

Using a tyre size guide, should allow you to plug in easily available tyre dimensions, and reduce the error.

I have a feeling that the cluster may be different.

when I've seen Nismo clusters on Yahoo, if I remember correctly, they state NOT ARX.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...