Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This all started out as a bit of a joke with a mate who owns an r33 gtst auto. He had just brought a can of start ya bastard back from starting his boat motor, and after reading the can, we noticed the contents.

Upon looking at the contents, he came to the conclussion that it gives a nice increase iin power, which is perfectly safe. That is, when used according to a few guidlines:

Due to the nature of the substance, exhaust temperatures increased greatly, and therefore should only be used for a short period, such as during a run. Afterwards, the engine must be cooled for a short while. no different to the way you use NOS. Using an exhaust temperature probe, temps returned back to normal within a matter of seconds (approx 5 secs).

The method used in testing was to use a regulator valve connected to the top of the can. A hose was connected to the valve and ran through the firewall and into the air intake. Therefore it is controlled from inside the car. The power increase has been confirmed because while accelerating at max in third gear, as soon as the valve is switched on, the wheels start to spin. As his car is auto, the 1/4 times are pretty consistent, and we have yet to have detirmined the difference on the strip.

the main power in the product comes from ether (higher flammability and octane energy content than fuel). another reason which led him to believe that it is safe, is the fact that it is actually supposed to be used in cars.

We are going to test this further, but have gone through more than 5 cans without any adverse effect. For around $20 a can plus $50 for the regulator (it was just lying around), this seems to be a cheap performance boost to improve 1/4 mile times. Can anyone please comment if they've ever tried it, or know of anything wrong with this setup. That is, other than a fire starting outside the car, because he is really careful to only fire it up when the car is sucking. BTW, car is running stock intercooler, stock turbine @ 14 psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43779-start-ya-bastard-syb/
Share on other sites

What we have done is testing this ourselves, at our own risk. Please do not try this yourselves anyone because we have not fully tested the effect of the substance. if we damage the car, that is fine, as we have already assessed the risk of this. If anyone does try it and hurts themselves/others or their car, don't blame us.

shyte!

those SYB style things are basically raw ether in a can. be carefull with that volitile idea...

watched a (none too bright) guy on a orchard blow an old single cyl motor apart, & i mean apart, by adding a touch to much in to start it.

I am aware of the dangers involved, but i feel that if used properly, it can be safe. The manual method used in testing is only temporary, and if succesful, he will be looking into making an electronically controlled system.

The amazing thing is, there has been no misfiring or detonation or any other problems. the way it has been used, is basically a very mild spray. Not just crazily pumping the intake full of the stuff. Using the pressure regulator, initially, he just tried opening it a bit, then a bit more, then a bit more marking how far it was turned.

I believe the next step would be to use an electronic regulator connected to the current setup. The method of attaching to the can may have to be looked into, or possibly even compressing it into another more permanent can. The connector used was similar to those used in gas lanterns. It just clamps onto the feet around the top. It does not leak either.

So far, it is looking to cost around $100 to make the electronic regulator. If this works out, it should spray when a button is pressed, and then the can can be kept up front, out of the cabin making it safer. hopefully this will work, and it does seem to generate quite a signigicant amount of power, without any visible side effects. The motor he is using has travelled 180000kms. there are no problems, however it will prob be on its way out soon, and he has plans for an rb30 rebuild, so he's not too fuss about destroying it. But everything is looking good at this stage, for a homemade NOS kit for around $150

just hire a few flintstones to help push down the 1/4, much safer idea

While comments are appreciated i dont see how that is constructive to this discussion .

Even though i will NEVER attempt this on a car i owned i am interested to see how the car goes , wether its quicker , makes power or in fact hangs a rod! to some poeple this might seem a stupid way of making power but i can see the fun in it.

ac

:slap:

it's definitely very interesting. We only achieve great things by trying. Very recently, all these gtsts have been pulling into the 13s and 12s on standard turbos, and even the 11s with nos.

MANWHOR3 mate, you're a top bloke for trying.

I hope you just be very very careful, and that your friend does not hurt himself.

I see no issue with someone assessing the risks and getting on with something new. I myself tried out oxygen injection with an extra injector and water injection on my laser lynx dropping the 0-100 from 9.8 to 7 seconds flat with no other mods. Imagine the surprise on the faces of '95 V8 commonwhore owners.

Great stuff, and proceed with caution. I found that the in cylinder pressures inceased dramatically as an impulse rather than a full pressure curve (I used in cylinder pressure transducers and data logger) but the car is still going fine even though i did burn out a couple of plugs due to poor mixing of the oxygen initially.

I'll be following this thread closely as its very similar to my ideas about nitromethane (again another alcohol which I had theories about mixing with the fuel or vaporising into the air intake.) Here's some of my ideas in this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43368

The problem I'm lead to believe thru my readings is that alcohols don't combust as quickly as pure hydrocarbons (gasoline). This means they either coagulate in the filters or have to be dumped straight into the exhaust following the stroke.

Good work and good luck. Remember, you'll never never know if you never never go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...