Jump to content
SAU Community

Ats & Across 1.5Way Carbon Lsd For Gtr

Equinox
 Share

Recommended Posts

Equinox Rising Star

Equinox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Selling a used BNR32/BCNR33/BNR34 GT-R ATS&ACROSS Carbon 1.5-way LSD.

I bought this with the intention to use it in my Silvia but I ran out of time and never got round to buying a matching set of GTR driveshafts and hubs to go with it. Hence it has been sitting in my garage in an oiled bag unused since.

For those who don't know, these are the absolute best LSDs available in the Japanese market. They are used on many top-level time-attack cars such as the Revolution, R-Magic and RE Amemiya RX-7s, Tomei S15, Amuse/Autobacs/ASM S2000s, etc. They don't chatter like metal LSDs, last way longer, are more predictable and provide faster times.

Some info from ATS:

Principal characteristics of the Carbon LSD

- More than twice the differential lock strength of metal LSDs
- Quiet operation without chattering noise
- More than twice the differential lock strength of metal LSDs
- Low initial drag resistance and durability that is more than 5 times greaterthan metal
- Acceleration control range more than 10 times that of metal LSDs
- More than 30 times the thermal decomposition resistance of metal LSDs
- More than 70 times the service life of metal LSDs
- Gentle transitional characteristics that yield ease of handling from free to lock
- Small degree of slipping which provide a greater flexibility
- Super durable
- Stable differential lock performance which is unaffected by oil temperature changes
- The performance of carbon LSD is not influenced by a choice of LSD oil
- Very high adaptability to many LSD oils from different manufacturers

Carbon LSD is recommended for those who suffer from the following problems.

- I can not pass through the clipping point ideal corner entry.
- I want to quickly open the accelerator at the rising edge of the corner.
- Control of under-over is difficult at the rising edge of the corner.
- oil temperature rises there is no durable for use at low initial.
- Time-up can not be time is not stable.
- How do I get rid of noise of LSD
- You want to keep as natural as possible handling

Reliability

ATS ran their demo S15 for 65,000km around the clock around mountain roads over six months. When they pulled down the LSD the plates still had near-new thickness and the torque of the LSD was still near-new.

"The ATS demo R34 GT-R has 140,000km on the current LSD, but the LSD is working beautifully with only oil changes. We think it can go for 200,000 to 300,000 km since there is no detectable deterioration in performance."

Someone please buy this and put it to good use as it's useless sitting my garage.

Asking $900 delivered anywhere in Australia.

PM or SMS 0423800325.

Please note that this is an LSD centre only and the half shafts pictured are for information purposes only. If you need them for your application we can work something out.

R9fa5Bs.jpg
leCsqFY.jpg
gLzxdpj.jpg

Edited by Equinox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437855-ats-across-15way-carbon-lsd-for-gtr/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
MaximuSmurf Enthusiast

MaximuSmurf

Posted
Posted

Pretty interested, need a 1.5way mech lsd for my daily S15. So I would need to source GTR driveshafts and hubs as well? And they'll slot into an S15 fine? Sorry just trying to work out the total stuff I need.

Equinox Rising Star

Equinox

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Pretty interested, need a 1.5way mech lsd for my daily S15. So I would need to source GTR driveshafts and hubs as well? And they'll slot into an S15 fine? Sorry just trying to work out the total stuff I need.

Spot on. It'll be incredibly strong once you source those components and bolt it all into a Silvia. No need for the rest of the GTR bits as the S15 has the better subframe and the diff gears/casing are similar.

Edited by Equinox
MaximuSmurf Enthusiast

MaximuSmurf

Posted
Posted

Spot on. It'll be incredibly strong once you source those components and bolt it all into a Silvia. No need for the rest of the GTR bits as the S15 has the better subframe and the diff gears/casing are similar.

Ah ok, sounds alright then... do certainly like some of the features of these over the Nismo 1.5 way's I've been looking at... Do you know what exact model it is? What year it is? And how many km's it's done (I know that's not very relevant, just want to know).

Site with models listed - http://www.ppi-ats.com/LSD/Carbon_LSD.html

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...