Power Fc Boost Control Unlimited Boost?

[89CAL]

My PFC boost control kit was NO when I had it thats for sure. Because I had it off running a line straight to the gate for a while, then plugged it all back in and forgot to turn it on and it went to 27psi before I backed off. So try with the solenoid plugged in, the PFC BC kit turned off, to blow through the solenoid from the boost signal side to the wastegate side. It should blow out the other port.

It does make a difference which way it is plumbed because if its back to front you will get crappy boost control then if you make it to the target it would start rising more and more (think about how its supposed to work compared to if it worked in the opposite way) Or in theory this is how it should be anyway

If yours is internal gate it should be working as above, mine was internal gate and worked pretty well faultlessly the whole time I had it set up as above.

Just remembered to that the solenoid should get constant power then it is earthed through the ECU for duty cycle, so you should see 13V at the solenoid

to check resistance accross the solenoid, just get a multimeter, put it in resistance/ohms (the omega symbol one) and measure from one pin to the other (or one wire to the other) on the solenoid. Usually I get single digits when I test coils, so I would assume anything under 20 (as an uneducated 'worst case' sceneraio guess) should be fine.

[chiksluvit]

pretty sure NO means it's open to the com port, not open to atmo- ie boost signal goes to the actuator

unplug the solenoid and go for a drive, you won't get unlimited boost, so if it dies one day you should just be running actuator boost

PFC grounds the solenoid -ve when BC is turned off so the solenoid is constantly charged up, ie completes the circuit, which closes NO and opens NC, thats why you got the unlimited boost, same as what i had experienced

[89CAL]

NO is no circuit. Its the same as it is with electronics.

Ive told you how mine worked. I never checked voltages im just going off assumptions, and im not sure how you are measuring voltages (as you said you arent 100% with a multimeter)

So ive told you how mine worked. So if you turn it off and you arent getting open boost then something about yours is different to mine

[chiksluvit]

NO is no circuit. Its the same as it is with electronics.

Ive told you how mine worked. I never checked voltages im just going off assumptions, and im not sure how you are measuring voltages (as you said you arent 100% with a multimeter)

So ive told you how mine worked. So if you turn it off and you arent getting open boost then something about yours is different to mine

I just didn't know how to check resistance, i know how to check voltage, here's a photo of the multimeter hooked up to the cut wires on the plug, BC on @ idle

I thought no on the solenoid is normally open, nc on solenoid means normally closed, com means common, read this up from somewhere, I could be wrong

Also I've tested the solenoid, you could blow through NO to com when it's unplugged, hook it up to a battery you can't, but you can from NC to com

If your solenoid is getting full 13v when boost controller is turned off like mine did before I got the commander then NO turns off, and you get unlimited boost

Think I'll just get a turbotech or run a separate ebc

[KiwiRS4T]

Would take you 5mins to try alternative plumbing.

[89CAL]

O.K for a start, no you are not testing voltage at the solenoid. you are testing voltage either accross the solenoid or accross the ECU. you need to put the positive from the multimeter where you want to test for voltage and the negative on a good chassis ground/earth

This is a definative way of testing voltage at that one point. Testing accross things is not always effective. If you check the way I have said you may find you have different readings. Note I say MAY. The way the ECU earths the solenoid may give you true readings sometimes

As said above, its not hard to swap the ports over. All I can remember about mine is that the boost lines were at 90 degrees (the way they went in and out of the solenoid)

I followed Paulr33's guide for hooking it up and it worked fine

Checking resistance accross something is basically how you have done it in the photo but you want to be checking it like that on the solenoid wires. This will give you the restistance from where the power enters the solenoid then comes back out

Going back through your original post, I dont think the behaviour voltage wise is that strange given the way you are testing it. There arent many multimeters that can measure the voltage changes that you get with PWM, so its not really possible to measure the solenoid 'doing its job' as the values will be all over the place. My $600 fluke multimeter would struggle/probably not even get close to being able to show it, let alone the $20 meter you have there. I'm not having a stab, those multimeters are fine for doing most things that you will ever need to do on a car etc.

Just play with the plumbing and try it. As far as I can see the solenoid is doing something so its either an ECU fault or a boost plumbing problem

Edited March 25, 2014 by 89CAL

[chiksluvit]

Yeah also tested the +ve by connecting the -ve of multimeter on strut tower nut, I get constant 13v

Like said above I've checked voltage with solenoid connected, disconnected, positive on wire negative on wire and positive on wire negative on chassis

I will try swapping the plumbing around, just haven't done it because I'm still at work and cars at home

[Ruthr33]

Hello can some one translate into power fc "com no nc"

Port 1 =

Port 2 =

Port 3 =

Thank you.

[GTSBoy]

It's very easy. That valve is the same MAC valve used in most boost control setups.

COM = common. This is the port that will get connected to one of the other 2 ports depending on whether it's powered or not.

NO = Normally Open. This literally means that it is connected to the COM port when the valve is unpowered (ie, in its NORMAL state).

NC = Normally Closed. This means the opposite of the above. CLOSED in the NORMAL UNPOWERED state.

Note that this is different to the electrical definition that 89CAL reported in post #23. He is correct when it comes to electronics, not in pneumatics.

In the picture above, Port 2 is COM. That side always gets connected to the wastegate actuator regardless of the type of boost control.

Port 3 is NO. This is usually connected to the boost source when using an internal wastegate actuator. This makes the system safe if the boost controller is switched off - boost is directly connected to the actuator and you get the actuator pressure setting. In the case of the external actuator shown above, it is instead the vent.

Port 1 is NC. This is usually the vent on internal wastegate systems. On the external wastegate system shown, it is the boost source input to the solenoid. Note that the boost source is also directly connected to one side of the actuator, so the system is safe when the boost controller faults (or is unpowered).

Note that "safe" when faulted is true unless the boost controller faults in the solenoid powered state. Hard to guard against that without a redundant control system though.

Edited July 3, 2014 by GTSBoy

[Ruthr33]

Thank u very much. I've got all the gear but no instructions. I'm running turbosmart external with top and bottom ports. And I'm pretty sure this is the setup for me. So just to reiterate on the setup above.

Port 1 nc

Port 2 com

Port 3 no

My boost controller is switched off in my datalogit/hand controller settings. How can I test if I've hooked it up properly? My car is untuned but my afrs are rich when I give it boost and there's no knock. I have 14psi spring but I've seen 17

[scotty nm35]

You can easily find the NO port by blowing through it.

If you want to run boost to the top of the gate, to hold it shut better, you will need a 4 or 5 port MAC preferably.

[89CAL]

Yeah sorry I screwed up the pneumatic side of NO/NC.

I set mine up using paulr33's FAQ. Pretty sure it shows you exactly how to set it up