Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I have recently picked up an oil temp gauge which I want to install into my 260rs. It looks as if I have 2 options,

1. Use a sandwich plate and run the sensor from one of the ports

2. Plumb the sensor into where the existing oil pressure sensor is?

I understand option 1 but after searching option 2 I cant find any concrete info on how to do this, what adaptors I will need and where exactly the pressure sensor is. Unless I run an oil cooler I'd prefer not to use a sandwich plate

Surely plent of people have done this on an RB26 engine.

Any specific advice would be great, cheers

I need this answer too. I ran my oil temp sensor to the sandwich plate where my pressure sensor is connected but It won't work for some reason.

Where does the factory sensor pick up from?

The oil pressure sensor thread is 1/8bsp most aftermarket gauges are 1/8npt. They are very close but definitely not the same.

You can just get a tee piece of original pressure gauge, on a neo it's on the thing the oil filter screws onto. on an rb30 is on the block just above the oil filter. Rb26 would be similar to one of them.

This thread is rb25 but does the plug I am talking about. Apparently it's where the workshop manual says to put a pressure gauge, so I would use that. Assuming its on the 26. http://forums.nicoclub.com/rb25det-oil-pressure-sensor-sender-relocation-t548891.html

something like this is the easy way to do it at the standard temp sender location:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LMA-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-50mm-Long-T-Piece-Race-Rally-Motorsport-/310846011316?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&var=&hash=item485fddb7b4

Just check that there will be clearance for the fitting + the 2 senders down there.

It's generally easier to put in filter relocation kit with extra ports for senders, you get the benefit of a much easier to change filter as well! And easier plumbing for a oil cooler too

Cheers for the responses, looking at that last eBay link Duncan, it notes in the description that the T piece should not be used for an oil temperature gauge as it will result in an innacurate reading... If its a little off that fine but if its a long way off then its not worth it. Have you used this in the past with success?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/salisbury-plain/engine-engine-parts-transmission/rb-trust-greddy-grex-oil-filter-relocation-/1036842314

Thats what I thought but its always worth asking what experiences people have had. I'll try track down a Greddy relocator kit and run the sensor from there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...