Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the technology is getting smaller and more portable I was thinking of hooking up a ODB scanner to my 2006 V36 350GT SP skyline and outputting the values onto a iPad mini.

I am trying to figure out what would be the best ODB Scanner to use? I have been told I need a wifi unit as the Bluetooth units won't talk to Apple as they speak different language.

I had a odd warning that through net searching found out it was to do with the oil however would prefer to have a scan tool to help me with these warnings if they happen again.

If anyone could point me in the right direction of an affordable unit that would be great.

I have searched on here and basically I can see the one that you need a XP laptop for however I would like one to use with an iPad not laptop.

thanks for any suggestions.

I got a Vgate odb2 scanner that works a treat on the wife's Ford however hopeless with the skyline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437997-obd-scanner-to-ipad-application/
Share on other sites

HKS OB-link works great and it'll show CEL codes and such but you won't be able to clear them and it uses android.

I think you'll have trouble to find an OBD scanner with wifi, the ones I've seen all use USB, serial or bluetooth.

I don't use apple products and I understand that the ipad is what you probably what you have laying around, but it's probably easier if you get an android device with bluetooth.

*EDIT* After I did a quick and easy google search this came up....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnPx4opR7o4

So a PLX kiwi device is an OBD scanner with wifi. But unsure how well it will work with the V36.



Edited by M35woah

Anyone know what OBD ii / CAN protocol is used for the PV36-VQ35HR

Any of these?

ISO15765-4 (CAN) , ISO14230-4 (KWP2000) , ISO9141-2 , J1850 VPW , J1850 PWM, 11Bit CAN, 29Bit CAN

Check this out...

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/stanleyhuang/freematics-vehicle-telematics-with-open-source-har

The OBD-II is already available, the kickstarter project is to raise money for the software.

If you have minimal coding experience you could purchase the dongle right away and try it out.

The goal is to build an Apple ios app that will..

Our goal is to implement following features in the App:

  • Loading history data stored in Freematics OBD-II Adapter
  • Illustrating collected data into more professional and fancy charts
  • Video logging in sync with data logging
  • Video replay with overlaid data
  • Lap timer
  • Car performance benchmarking and comparison
  • Re-programming / updating firmware for Freematics OBD-II Adapter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...