Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've searched online for quite a while and haven't found any threads that match my problem so far, so here goes.

I have a problem with my AWD in the 32. It seems that the AWD is kicking in when it isn't needed. When I'm just cruising at 70km/h on constant throttle, the torque meter shows a constant 5% and increases with more throttle (never more than 10% though). This causes the car to stutter ever so slightly while cruising. Basically, the car is always in AWD mode.

A bit of background:

This only began straight after I had the front two tyres switched to brand new ones. The tyres are the same size all around. After having this done, I also had the wheels aligned. My suspicion is that it's to do with the alignment. This problem wasn't there before.

Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438047-r32-gtr-awd-problems/
Share on other sites

Always the same problem with ATTESSA.

Think about it.

You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears?

So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears.

Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate.

The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back.

Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction.

Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back.

Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Always the same problem with ATTESSA.

Think about it.

You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears?

So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears.

Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate.

The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back.

Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction.

Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back.

Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Always the same problem with ATTESSA.

Think about it.

You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears?

So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears.

Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate.

The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back.

Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction.

Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back.

Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...