Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

My names Michael and I used to own a maroon R33 GTST 5 years ago and be fairly active on the forum. I used to attend the meets up on the central coast at maccas all those years ago!

Have recently purchased a black R33 GTST S1. Got it for an absolute steal and its fairly standard and neat and tidy. I plan to modify it slowly over the coming months and keep everyone informed with a few pictures and updates :)

Hope to get involved again in this forum and get out and meet a few more SAU-ers.

Thanks!

post-27028-0-51810600-1390536450_thumb.jpeg

post-27028-0-65142300-1390536462_thumb.jpeg

post-27028-0-10008100-1390536473_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438081-old-r33-owner-buys-r33-again/
Share on other sites

This morning I pulled out the coil packs and did the old tape job to stop misfire in high rpm.

I also discovered a manual boost controller hidden below the air box! The standard solenoid was still int eh engine bay with tubing connected going no where.. So that's a score!

I wound down the boost from 13psi to 10psi and I am getting a much cleaner run through the entire rev range now with no misfires or jerkiness.

Next plans are to re-connect the audio system up and replace the rear speakers that are fu$&ed.

  • 2 weeks later...

Remember the common issues and fix them :)

- replace coils with OEM or Splitfires

- Replace exhaust manifold studs with uprated toyota ones/oem

- rocker cover gaskets and half moons

- clean your aac and cold start valve

Thanks for the tips.. Actually in the process of buying splitfire coil packs now. 2 out of 6 of my oem coil packs have 1 stripped bolt each so they will be a bitch to get out :(

Also just updating a few other bits:

# replaced the rear speakers that were all cracked, rewired all speakers and head unit/DVD player that was in the car so everything now works.

#bought a second hand 4 ch kicker amp to run all speakers, much better sound now, worth the $50 :D

# found my old his type 1 turbo timer and installed that.. Works perfect, If anyone needs the wiring colour code to the ignition let me know :)

That's about it for now...

I will be doing a full service of all liquids and oils and filters and replacing my coil packs with split fires next weekend :D

Yepo gota love the design of the tail lights...

Installed my apexi el II boost gauge and controller tonight. It is all lit up and working with the controller just need to run the sensor wire through my firewall back to the controller. Boost line is already taped.

Few pictures of my gauge install and my turbo timer install a couple of days ago.. Plus my head unit "tidy up" in the background!

post-27028-0-75183000-1391599409_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-34954000-1391599445_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-88360300-1391599482_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-64859700-1391599544_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-99807100-1391599593_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

welcome back.

loving the progress reports.

Thanks Luke!

Well I swapped over my coil packs... Seems that the coil pack in cylinder 2 had been swimming in coolant at some point in its life. As you can see in the picture by the white crust, there is no evidence now of any coolant leaks after running my car for 1000km then checking on my new yellow jackets.

Its amazing the difference that yellow jackets have made right across the rev range, everything seems so much smoother now and no more misses at any rpm!

In the mean time I also managed to pick up an 18" set of used rims and wheel package! 2 of the rims had some decent gutter rash but was able to sand them back and spray with matt black paint and they look fine now. All 4 have 90% Bridgetsone tyre left on them and they cost me only $200. Bargain....

Pictures:

post-27028-0-99665700-1393455481_thumb.jpeg

post-27028-0-59701000-1393455480_thumb.jpeg

post-27028-0-37021700-1393455479_thumb.jpeg

post-27028-0-09047200-1393455478_thumb.jpeg

  • 1 month later...

Had a weekend off work so I took the time to install some of the mods I have had siting in my garage for a while Pictures are attached of the various mods, worth noting I installed everything myself with a mixture of my own knowledge and Google/this forum

· FMIC Kit

· Drivers side seat upgrade

· Conversion Speedo/Cluster kit

· HID low beam and HID Hi beam (8000k colour temp)

· Complete LED conversion of all exterior globs (parkers, all indicator globes, reverse lights, number plate lights etc)

· LED conversion to interior dome light and map lights + I have a blue conversion kit for my Aircon buttons still to be installed.

I took a fair few pictures while installing a lot of these mods which I am happy to do a write up and post for anyone who wants it

Stay tuned in the coming weeks for the following mods:

· Converting the clock plus aircon displays to blue (using acrylic gel) plus replacing the aircon buttons to blue LED

· Interior blue lighting in foot wells when doors open (courtesy lights)

· Installation of new LED indicator units

· Engine bay tidy up with new blue colour hosing and conduit..

post-27028-0-44955400-1396842189_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-99010500-1396842203_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-02118900-1396842236_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-26206800-1396842262_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-09427000-1396842316_thumb.jpg

post-27028-0-44773000-1396842326_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...