Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so I'm Taylor and I'm from Alberta Canada. I'm new to the site and I'm looking at doing my first build on a R32 GTR. The engine has just under 80k on it and is sitting bone stock but it runs perfectly with no issues. The cars only problems are minor dents and peeling paint (as shown in the pictures). It also needs some interior work as it's missing rear window sill cover and air vent covers (also shown in the pictures). I'm looking for any advice you would all be able to give as far as costs of the paint job and fixing the dents (I know it will be no less then 4000) I'd also appreciate suggestions of good sites to visit to but parts! Finally I haven't decided where I want to take this car as far as the actual engine build any ideas suggestions or advice would really be appreciated !! Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438093-first-skyline-build-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Hi Taylor welcome to SAU. Your pics haven't uploaded so you might need to get that fixed before anyone can give you some advice and as far as cost of paint repair that may vary a fair bit between Canada and Aus but we can still help with advice. Get some pic's up and people will be more than happy to offer you some advice. As far as what direction you want to take the car what do you want to do with it? Just a street car? Street/occasional track day car or do you want to get into motorsport? Have a look through some of the other build threads as there's plenty of great ideas in them and SAU's not short of R32 GTR build threads either so plenty of stuff that will apply to you. Good luck with the build and looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...