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Hey everyone, I've got an R32 GTR and I can't get the front brakes to stop squealing....

I do my own work on my own cars all the time, I've done my own brakes time and time again and I've never had a drama. I did my brakes recently on this GTR and the old owner had lost the anti rattle shims, I was in a bind so I fitted the pads without them.

They squealed and I put it down to the absence of the shims, so I sourced another set along with some anti squeal silicone stuff (goes on the back of the pads) and tonight I pulled the brakes apart, roughed the pads up, used the anti squeal paste along with the shims and put it all back together.

I went for a drive and followed usual bed in procedure, I was stoked because the noise had gone. About 10 minutes into the drive it had come back with a vengeance.

What is up with this? Could it be the type of pads (bendix ultra whatever the fark), or could my rotors have an issue?

Almost ready to burn it.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438113-brakes-squealing/
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Piss those pads off; they're nothing special.

Do yourself a favour & grab a set of Remsa pads from GSL Rallysport. Bed them in EXACTLY as GSL recommend.

Great value rated to 650 degrees. No farkin squealing.

http://gslrallysport.com/remsa

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You positive that it's the pad mate?

I know they're nothing special, my pads were just down to nothing and I needed something ASAP, so I grabbed what was available. I've used them before on cars with the same callipers as a GTR and had no dramas with squeal.

Truth be told, the rotors could do with a light machine, but I've had worse rotors in the past that were quiet as.

You positive that it's the pad mate?

I know they're nothing special, my pads were just down to nothing and I needed something ASAP, so I grabbed what was available. I've used them before on cars with the same callipers as a GTR and had no dramas with squeal.

Truth be told, the rotors could do with a light machine, but I've had worse rotors in the past that were quiet as.

The squeal could be related to the shims; I've always run them in my Sumitomo calipers, and never had issues.

It could also be incompatibility between the old pad material (layer on the rotors) & the new pads; this is very common.

Some pads will refuse to work with the layer of material left on the rotor from the previous pads; it's always a good policy to give a light skim when changing from one pad material to another, unless you KNOW they are compatible.

Overheating pads in the "Bed In" phase can cause the bonding material to be drawn to the surface; this effectively glazes the pad.

Sometimes scuffing can save them, sometimes they are unsalvageable.

People are tempted to get new pads very hot, by doing heaps of very high speed stops, because they are going to use them hard.

Often, the temps required to set the bonding material are quite low.

The Remsa's have a reputation for not being squealy, nor are they very hard on rotors, but they are dusty. I'll take dust over squeal any day.

Hopefully it's a simple fix.

Do the pads have a 45 degree chamfer on the leading and trailing edges? This helps a lot to control squeal.

Normally its the friction of the pads rubbing against the pistons or against the caliper, some old school mechanics use to use copper grease to lube those points.

The outside anti rattle shims can also become weak with use and heat, sometimes a bit of a bend to tighten up the pressure against the pads helps.

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