Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried this - water didn't really bubble. A tiny amount of white froth developed as the coolant started to get hot. Not sure if that's meant to happen but I read up that it froths a little when the radiator starts to build up pressure.

Massive head f**k it has become!

that sound about right and my best guess is HG, just enough to upset the cylinder pressures

I have a feeling it's the injector. Are you sure they're brand new? I bought the fiveo 1000cc injectors and they are 2nd hand high flows and one even had surface rust. I wouldn't recommend the high flows really. It can be difficult to cold start my engine now.

that sound about right and my best guess is HG, just enough to upset the cylinder pressures
I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...
I have a feeling it's the injector. Are you sure they're brand new? I bought the fiveo 1000cc injectors and they are 2nd hand high flows and one even had surface rust. I wouldn't recommend the high flows really. It can be difficult to cold start my engine now.
Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum.:)

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...

Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum. :)

id defiantly give it a go, worst case after you pull everything out is that It works, then you know the injectors wont be the issue..

my old pulsar was misfiring on 1st cylinder, replaced leads, plugs, did a compression test, exc.. it was a little water in the dizzy cap... got nothing to do with rb`s but it was just a simple problem...

Edited by ..::R33GTS-T::..
  • Like 1

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum.:)

Won't there be a huge hole in the rail if you pull one injector out?

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice...

Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum. :)

You can change injectors without taking plenum off just need to take T/b off. I would say swap them small job for ruling something out.

Won't there be a huge hole in the rail if you pull one injector out?

Hahahaha... I obviously didn't think that through!

I might try removing the TB and swapping the injectors around. I'll keep you guys filled in - thanks for the help!

If you want to rule out the headgasket, there is a chemical test you use on the radiator to see if combustion chemicals (namely hydrocarbons) are entering the cooling system.

I've used this on a diesel patrol and it's a good way to easily test instead of removing the head if it is ok.

I got mine from Nissan (test kit). But i Borrowed the tool that screws onto the filler neck for the kit to fit into.

bit like a pressure test tool.

If you want to rule out the headgasket, there is a chemical test you use on the radiator to see if combustion chemicals (namely hydrocarbons) are entering the cooling system.

I've used this on a diesel patrol and it's a good way to easily test instead of removing the head if it is ok.

I got mine from Nissan (test kit). But i Borrowed the tool that screws onto the filler neck for the kit to fit into.

bit like a pressure test tool.

These kits are actually looking for dissolved CO2, not hydrocarbons.

  • Like 1

Update and questions...

Ecu is not my problem - tried a working ecu and it still dropped the cylinder.

Tested coolant for exhaust fumes... The test came back negative for exhaust fumes.

Tested injector driver voltages... Injectors 2-6 have a voltage (on the driver wire) of 14.3-14.7, however injector 1 (which relates to the dropping cylinder) had a voltage of 12.8-13.7.

I have no idea how voltage relates to injector timing and tried to search but found the information was way too technical for me! Does anybody know if this could be causing the cylinder to misfire???

Thanks for the help guys!

Low voltage will increase the latency and reduce the total opening, leading to slightly less fuel in total, but it shouldn't miss that badly. But low voltage static might indicate a bad joint or something that will drop the voltage further when it's under load (ie when the injector coil is earthed and operating).

Injector voltage is critical to their operation so I would be looking further into that. Perhaps the ground side is earthing slightly, which may cause the injector to leak.

I managed to get lucky in the sense that for about 1 minute the car stop misfiring and it gave me time to check that voltage... I've discovered that when the car stopped misfiring the injector voltage went back up to around 14.3-14.7.

It seems as though I've located where the problem is... Now it's a matter of trying to solve it.

I'll keep you guys updated. Cheers :)

I've found my issue - faulty injector. If I give it a few love taps, the voltage rises up to normal and it works fine.

Anyone care to explain why that would be happening (for educational purposes) and is there any home fixes or do I have to replace it?

Yeh I definitely will - don't ever wanna go through the headache again!

Thanks to anybody who contributed to the thread...

For future purposes and research, voltages on the injectors should be checked as it turns out a drop of 0.3 volts can cause a whole cylinder to drop!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God I love shiny engine parts 🥰 Are you looking for more horsetorques in the mid range? (Smaller cam) Or just more horsetorques every where? (Big heads and bigger revs) Assumption: they were not bought late night shopping on the interwebs after drinking too many beers, which is typically how I pull pins on things......🤣 The evolution of your car is coming along nicely, I sometimes wish I didn't get bored with my cars and keep flipping them, maybe the MX5 will be different  
    • I got the hazards working! Turned out it was disconnected! Indicator stock still isn’t working. I took the steering shroud off and there seems to be a third connection missing I see two small white connectors but they don’t fit the indicator switch unless they need a short lead to convert the connector type. Can someone point me in the direction of the wiring diagram for the indicator switch?   https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e8ReiFSLBVJsTPUKKfA_1IdQ  
    • All of your suspension bushes/bolts etc, should also only ever be tightened when the car is sitting with full weight too.   IE, jack it back up, shove a heap of stuff down so you can lower the wheels onto so the car is "on the ground" but you have room to get under it.   It's why when properly done, you should be able to remove the shock and spring, but the arms won't go to 100% droop. If you don't do the above, you'll destroy your bushes.
    • We have some more genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates in stock 🙂, as well as the plain white 40mm hole cover: Tama 400 No 12-41: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-no-1241 Morioka 300 Te 43-58: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-te-4358 Plain White 40mm Hole Cover: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-40mm-hole-cover-white There's also a yellow plate for Kei cars with the corresponding yellow 40mm hole cover sold as a set: Tsukuba 581 Ii 64-66: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-single-number-plate-ii-6466 Also some Skyline 1/43 scale models: 1989 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Silver): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/rare-ebbro-oldies-2006-release-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gtr-silver 1989 HCR32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M (Red): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/kyosho-original-1-43-hcr32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-type-m-red
×
×
  • Create New...