Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cross flow is the one which deletes factory pipework and u cut hole in battery tray. This the one u were thinking ?

The other type is turn flow - end tanks are return so u can keep factory intake pipework

It's efficiency will change depending on duty time, and ambient temperature. I would say it would support 500+kw of flow, as long as there is enough air passing through it to keep it cool. Stock GTR intercoolers flow 500kw, so this one being slightly thicker and better quality core should be fine.

You might as well go with a 120mm core if you plan to upgrade. :P

  • 7 months later...

Nothing much different in the core. Turn flow just have the tank on the driver's side with an outlet at the top or bottom so you can send the cold pipe back towards the LHS of the car (either along the top of the core or underneath the core). This allows you to put the pipework through the factory holes. Because you have to make room for the return pipe, the core can't be as tall, and generally because the outlet of the RHS tank tends to clash with headlights/bumper supports etc, the core often needs to be a bit shorter than you can get away with on a straight through design.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a given!  Bit hard to powdercoat it properly without removing them! 😁
    • No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit. However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter. Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes). If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.  
    • Do you plan on using 98 or e85?
    • This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.
×
×
  • Create New...