Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cleaning up the bay on my 32, I've removed the plenum so I can paint it.

Now I've come across this absolute dogs breakfast, and my OCD will not let it remain in the same state.

The car is only a weeknd cruiser, I've removed hicas, front hicas solenoid and lines, also removed as a/c and carbon canister.

Question I'm asking is all of this needed? Now obviously I know it's there for a reason, but taking in account what's been removed, is all of this still needed?, can things be re-run, blocked etc etc.theres also a few hoses that have been blocked off? I think one runs around the rear of the block and would explain why on the turbo side I've got a steel pipe that has short hoses which are also blocked off, think they went to the old accuators? Also can the AAC valve be removed or best to leave it? Any help is appreciated, any pics or diagrams of how to re route line etc will be greatly appreciated also. post-27243-13907169468328_thumb.jpg

Now that you have the manifold off it would be a good time to check and replace all of those small water hoses as it is a pain to be chasing a water leak with the manifold in place. You can pick up a complete silicon hose kit for less than $100 so it is not a great outlay.

Yeah that's all part of the plan mate, I'm clearing out everything that isn't used, painting the bay as much as possible, with the engine still in it. Only because of corrosion caused by by battery. That why I'd like to find out what is needed and what can be done away with first. This may be a stupid question but bare with me, the heater hoses what are the for exactly? Mainly the 2 hick ones that run behind the block n into the firewall? I'd love to piss them off. Also are there any hoses you CANT USE, braided one on. Apart from vac lines

Yeah that's all part of the plan mate, I'm clearing out everything that isn't used, painting the bay as much as possible, with the engine still in it. Only because of corrosion caused by by battery. That why I'd like to find out what is needed and what can be done away with first. This may be a stupid question but bare with me, the heater hoses what are the for exactly? Mainly the 2 hick ones that run behind the block n into the firewall? I'd love to piss them off. Also are there any hoses you CANT USE, braided one on. Apart from vac lines

Those hoses go to the heater core so if you dont care about the heater you can get rid of them and just join them from where they orignally were.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
×
×
  • Create New...