Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I live in QLD and am interested in getting an evo from these guys in Sydney. There are SO many mixed opinions on the dealership so I just thought I would get a bit of food for thought.

I have found an Evo8MR I am interested in and of course the pictures look immaculate. Fish oil/tyreshine and cheap polish does not impress me and I can look past that, but I am suss on a couple of things that may just be the norm for imports.

It is advertised as a stock MR, and it essentially is bar boost gauge and ARC manifold cover. The engine bay on the other hand has an aftermarket blitz radiator. It just seems weird to have a basically stock car with an upgraded radiator. Is this something common on imported cars from Japan? My first thoughtrs were a decent front end crash but I wouldn't think they would chuck an expensive radiator in as a cover up, unless blitz radiators are falling from the heavens in japan which they probably are.

Sorry for the rant lads just need some input on the matter.

The carsale advertisement is below

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Mitsubishi-Lancer-2004/AGC-AD-15110778/?Cr=4&sdmvc=1

Yeah I used them to get my 34R, they are ok from my dealing. The car was in great nick and was stock as exept for a few suprise parts which worked out well for me. (sard cat was a plesent surprise.)

As for the the blitz radiator, Some cars have really crap radiators stock and (the 34R was one) and Blitz radiators are pretty cheap. So that could explain that.

Still be wary of them. Ask for Auction sheet and dereg certificates. If they say "we don't have them" or they are stored away with the roads authority assume the KM's are not genuine...... Lets be honest, I've seen R35's with more than 43,000 k's on the clock.

Hard because you are in a diff state, but there are services out there that you can pay to have someone go over the car with a paint thickness meter. Will tell you alot about the car!

Looks like a nice car from the advert, but it's always smoke and mirrors when selling a car. Notice they have advertised it for $31, "888". A common "Lucky number" in Asian culture, so they are trying to appeal with marketing gimmicks.

Use a broker man.

Phil from Direct Imported or Kristian, Iron Chef.

Phil is at auction every other day and can personally inspect cars for you.

  • Like 1

Get it imported from a reputable importer (I used Iron Chef Imports - very happy)

I am still on the Chef's facebook and he has loads of good EVO's coming through almost daily.

Much safer and much better oversight over the Japan side of the process. You will be told whether the kms are genuine or whether there is some 'concern' in that area, you will get the auction sheets, you will have access to wide variety of stock and they will find you colour and grade that you want for a good price.

If you are prepared to wait for the right car - its the only way.

I'd never get an import any other way.

pm me if you want more details on what I went through to get my car.....

Cheers

The Baron - unashamed Iron Chef fan

  • Like 1

All good advice above and i'm sure via PM etc... given Mr. Pav is genuinely interested surely wouldn't be hard to get hold of the VIN/chassis number from the dealer - someone post it up and lets see what is really on offer here.

THAT dealer with 30-40K kms? Alarm bells.

Almost all their cars have kms around those numbers.

Previous research has shown that the 1 from the front of the odometer has often fallen off.

Quality importer as everyone has said. Not necessarily the cheapest option but prob the best.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Personally i wouldnt touch are car from Parramatta road. Have a look on fdrx7.com, they have been checking vins and found lots of cars that had changed kms and history of accidents.

Ask for auction sheet and deregistration certificate. If they cant provide, walk away. They may tell you that they dont come with these but this is not true.

Edited by BigWillieStyles
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate i was there a couple of week back helping a friend look for an evo. Very rough cars to saay the least. Dodgy rattle can patch ups on the undercarriages to cover what i assume to be surface rust, over spray in wheel arches etc.... My advice would be to go down and have a look for yourself.

I personally wouldnt buy a car from there, very untrustworthy mob. I know a whole bunch of evo blokes that bought their cars from there and managed to get their hands on the japaneses de-reg papers and lets just say some of them are considering taking legal action.

Edited by evo_nick
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I'm on the hunt for a mint R33 GTR V-Spec to import. I have spoken to a couple well known Parramatta Rd importers as well as a Blacktown importer and they both explained their processes which were very similar. Can someone PM details of a Sydney based broker/importer that you recommend?

PS. I have sent an email to Phil and Kristian.

Much appreciated!

Edited by QRI05E
  • Like 1

I agree definitely steer clear of sports auto group I ALMOST bought an evo 8 that had been in an accident from them & they were chasing premium price. Bought an evo 9 for $800 more with genuine K's & full service history instead. Sam the Salesman also tried telling me I couldn't get my $500 deposit back took almost 2 weeks to get it back I had to pay him a visit & lets just say I had to "demand it back" scumbags!

That could actually be the evo I nearly bought!

Also after I put the deposit down he told me the factory BBS wheels weren't included in the sale of the car.

Edited by Mick_o
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Has anyone noticed that EVO values have taken a hit in the past few months?

Could it be that importers (especially along a busy road in Sydney), who were once trusted by the naive, are now approached with much more caution - and thus, the price slump?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...