Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is sorted, faulty CAS.... 385rwkw @ 22 dropping to 18psi.... very conservative tune due to the previous issues... should swing 400rwkw without a sweat.

To those who questioned pinging trust me i can pick it up well in advance i have over $2500 in knock monitoring gear (PLEX which is the best on the market and another which was originally designed for RBs during the gibson era)

Its a truly weird occurrence and is only the second RB in 10yrs i've had with this issue (different symptoms though).

  • Like 1

Ill copy paste from my build thread

So yeah. Still Internal gate standard manifold position:

Update:

Car issue all sorted

Ended up being a faulty CAS

22 psi down to 18 psi, conservative tune to make sure it is all ok.

Then will be coming back with 2-3 degrees more timing (~20rwkw) and up to 6 psi boost

Top line no airbox

2nd line airbox restriction

1622751_804351736245854_1333795786_n.jpg

Nice. thats a very high number for a bolton turbo setup. Dyno sheet?

Borrow a standard 600x300 core from someone and hook it up outside of the car. Yep just literally hang it out the bonnet with some long ass pipes.

I'll give you my EFT details when you're ready.

Lol

Car is sorted, faulty CAS.... 385rwkw @ 22 dropping to 18psi.... very conservative tune due to the previous issues... should swing 400rwkw without a sweat.

To those who questioned pinging trust me i can pick it up well in advance i have over $2500 in knock monitoring gear (PLEX which is the best on the market and another which was originally designed for RBs during the gibson era)

Its a truly weird occurrence and is only the second RB in 10yrs i've had with this issue (different symptoms though).

Wow - an actual faulty CAS, good to know this can happen - have had discussions about the possibility of this kind of thing when working through a similar issue and was told by people that this would never happen due to a CAS specific problem, at least without huge rpm being involved. I had picked up the tuning of a while ago, it would take SFA timing without pinging (exactly the same symptoms as this one it seems) its head off - in this particular instance it was actually a seriously buggered cam belt which had enough slop at mid rpm to cause the CAS to throw out erratic triggering signals. Just replacing the cambelt etc (left the original CAS) allowed a further 5+deg of timing to be put into it and the owner was beside himself at the final result.

I "only" use a G4 KnockBlock - but even with that I can tell dodgy combustion in cars which the owners are adamant the existing tune is fine, even when it has apparently been tuned with det cans of some sort - I sometimes wonder how much it is the user and how much it is the hardware where people aren't noticing knock. I won't personally won't tolerate the little static noise you can get before you even hear rattling.

Thanks for sharing the positive outcome, definitely duly noted

Also great to see a high nistune result.

580rwkw is my record but im sure there are higher ones out there.... even a 460rwkw Nistune SR has come through with flying colors.

Was that 580kw with an AFM ( I would presume so as I don't think you can have a MAP sensor with NIStune?) if so which one?

I'm assuming it would just be a standard sensor in a different diameter pipe recalibrated?

Was that 580kw with an AFM ( I would presume so as I don't think you can have a MAP sensor with NIStune?) if so which one?

I'm assuming it would just be a standard sensor in a different diameter pipe recalibrated?

Was that 580kw with an AFM ( I would presume so as I don't think you can have a MAP sensor with NIStune?) if so which one?

I'm assuming it would just be a standard sensor in a different diameter pipe recalibrated?

few tricks like

Lol

Wow - an actual faulty CAS, good to know this can happen - have had discussions about the possibility of this kind of thing when working through a similar issue and was told by people that this would never happen due to a CAS specific problem, at least without huge rpm being involved. I had picked up the tuning of a while ago, it would take SFA timing without pinging (exactly the same symptoms as this one it seems) its head off - in this particular instance it was actually a seriously buggered cam belt which had enough slop at mid rpm to cause the CAS to throw out erratic triggering signals. Just replacing the cambelt etc (left the original CAS) allowed a further 5+deg of timing to be put into it and the owner was beside himself at the final result.

I "only" use a G4 KnockBlock - but even with that I can tell dodgy combustion in cars which the owners are adamant the existing tune is fine, even when it has apparently been tuned with det cans of some sort - I sometimes wonder how much it is the user and how much it is the hardware where people aren't noticing knock. I won't personally won't tolerate the little static noise you can get before you even hear rattling.

Thanks for sharing the positive outcome, definitely duly noted

Worst part is the ignition trace is not scattered like you would assume. ( not sure why the above is not in qoute tags lol)

100kw from a CAS replacement is a great result. I wonder how common this issue is...

I had the same issue in 2010, it was a bastard to diagnose. Basically boosting up but then breaking down in the upper RPM range, exactly the same as with OP, although on a stock car.

Good to hear it's sorted - very tidy power figure too btw!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...