Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting An Oil Temp Sensor Without Sandwich Plate


rb2534
 Share

Recommended Posts

I fitted some Defi gauges a little while back with the intention of fitting an oil cooler but never got around to doing so and felt if my temps (with light track work) never got too bad I wouldn't worry with the cooler. But as the factory Nissan temp sensor is M12 x1.25 thread and the defi sensor is 1/8NPT I could never fit the temp sender and effectively had a useless gauge. I spent ages trying to find an adapter through just about every gauge, fitting, performance site and store within Australia and could only come up with suppliers from the UK with shipping worth more than I could justify. I could find adapters that were M12 x 1.50 and M12 x 1.00 but not 1.25 as it's a very odd size.

Finally I found a local supplier on ebay that sells them - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metric-Male-M12x1-25-To-Female-1-8-NPT-Also-Use-For-Pfira03-Fitting-/151195760051?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2333f835b3

All I did was fit an o-ring around the M12 thread that goes into the factory oil temp sensor location to seal it up (thread sealant would do the same but I didn't have any) and thread tape around the Defi sensor. I was a bit worried as the sensor tip did not stick out a great deal from the end of the adapter and not getting a true reading but the adaptor looks to thead in just as far as the factory sender and after taking my car for a run it seemed to work near spot on.

The temps warmed up relatively similar and after a good freeway run with 30degree ambient temps in Adelaide the oil temp was within 5 deg C to the coolant temp which is what I expected to see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Edit: Sorry, you said it was M12 thread, I thought it might have been the stock oil pressure sensor but with that thread I dont think it can be, pretty sure Nissan used the same 1/8 sensor for all Skylines

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

There is an easy way for rb 20

Dunno if rb25 is the same

post-89755-0-51240000-1392205460_thumb.jpg

I decided that the sensor is going to get pretty good accuracy, but take an extra 2 or 3 seconds for the temp to get there.

Fluids are good at transferring heat. Even though its not in the stream of oil, it works very well.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remote mounted my 2 oil pressure sensors. Just used a -4 braided line (I think it was -4 or -3) and put a fitting in the block and a T piece and the 2 sensors up the top. Pretty much the same as above, but remote mounting it for easier access. Probably not as good for oil temp, but works for oil pressure

20131122_172442_zps3616830d.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah havent had any problems with strange oil pressure readings. They are pretty much spot on where I would expect them to be.

Originally was going to just tee it off the block but this seemed smarter in case anything ever went wrong its so easy to fix :)

I've painted everything since then so its all black now bar the braided line, can just see it in this photo, it blends in pretty well now

20140119_103121_zpst7g7tgdy.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...