How Hot Is To Hot

[JordansR32]

Just wondering what peoples coolant temps are, now I know all set ups are different, as far as motor, fuel, thermos or normal clutch fan, temperature of the day etc...just want to see what peoples temps are, dunno if my cars running abit hot if people could give some details of what they have and the temps are that would be awsome

[89CAL]

Really depends on what temperature it is during the day, this has the most affect on it if everything else is working fine

on a 25 degree day, cruising along, mid/low 80's is good

Edited January 31, 2014 by 89CAL

[GTSBoy]

Or, in a Neo, high 80s is good.

[Leeroy94]

Daily driving, after a mountain run, track?

In my track car I run two thermos with a brand new radiator etc and see temps of 95-100 degrees after a hard run. Everything is running fine. I have 50% anti-boil and 50% demineralised water in my radiator, rather then 33% anti-boil/anti-freeze they use in premixes.

How hot is your car getting?

When does it get hot? Idling at stand still, on the highway etc..

[MatthewT85]

i just have basic bolt ons... 200rwkw

pretty much doesnt move from 80-81C

was at powercruise last weekend and it still didnt rise, i have a 52mm ASI radiator with no fan shroud atm

only time ive seen it more is up a big hill or if the car has been sitting after a drive then restarted, falls prety quick once i start driving

[Missileman]

  On 31/01/2014 at 12:17 PM, MatthewT85 said:

i just have basic bolt ons... 200rwkw

pretty much doesnt move from 80-81C

was at powercruise last weekend and it still didnt rise, i have a 52mm ASI radiator with no fan shroud atm

only time ive seen it more is up a big hill or if the car has been sitting after a drive then restarted, falls prety quick once i start driving

This ^^^^

[JordansR32]

It's a daily driver and street car, went for abit of a thrash the other night nothing to hard seen temps of around 95-100c.driving around normal is about 85-90 give or take depending on the weather.

Got a new alloy rad with stock fan and shroud, only thing had to cut fan a little bit so when bonnet was closed cooler pipe would press down on it and make it sound awful, don't know if that would affect all that much, with I done engine conversion used different engine mounts which lifted motor up.

[Leeroy94]

  On 31/01/2014 at 2:03 PM, JordansR32 said:

It's a daily driver and street car, went for abit of a thrash the other night nothing to hard seen temps of around 95-100c.driving around normal is about 85-90 give or take depending on the weather.Got a new alloy rad with stock fan and shroud, only thing had to cut fan a little bit so when bonnet was closed cooler pipe would press down on it and make it sound awful, don't know if that would affect all that much, with I done engine conversion used different engine mounts which lifted motor up.

Is the alloy rad from ebay? Lol

You could try adding more concentrate to your coolant. Seeing as your motor is sitting higher you could try putting washers underneath the rear bolt of the bonnet hinges (check with state law). 3mm clearance for air to escape does make a difference to under bonnet temps, it will also cause more air flow in the engine bay. A heat shield is a good idea too.

I'm just pumping ideas out here.

What motor did you upgrade to?

[JordansR32]

Can't remember where I got the rad from but it's a decent one, hold pressure and everything. Yea those ideas don't sound to bad, I'll have to give them a go. I changed to a rb25 in my 32

[Leeroy94]

Another thing, when you add more coolant concentrate to your radiator make sure you bleed it properly. Air bubbles in your system will decrease its ability to cool.

Post results when done and we can go from there.

[Guilt-Toy]

dont let it go over 101

[GTSBoy]

Why the hell would you add more concentrate? That is just retarded. Water has more heat capacity and better ability to move heat than anything in the concentrate. The vast majority of the concentrate is only intended to be corrosion inhibitor anyway.

[GTRPSI]

I find the concentrated the coolant mix is the hotter it will run.......

You want temps around the 80-85 mark, both oil and water.

Make sure your clutch fan is working you should be able to hear it whirle when its hot, open the hood and give it a rev, there should be lots of airflow when its on.

Most times it can come back as a slipping clutch fan.

Make sure your running a shroud too atherwise it wont work effiecently.

[Ben C34]

edut. Just noticed 2 posts above mine already said ut!

Edited February 1, 2014 by superben

[Leeroy94]

I don't know what coolant you guys use but the one i buy has got glycol in it. Which is twice as resistant to boiling than water... Therefore adding more concentrate (glycol) reduces the chance of boiling. Seeing as your car is reaching 95-100 degrees you want more glycol. If you run premix coolant chances are your engine won't get damaged but if you are planning on running it hard then yes add more glycol. You don't want your coolant to boil!!

  On 01/02/2014 at 1:09 AM, GTSBoy said:

Water has more heat capacity and better ability to move heat than anything in the concentrate. The vast majority of the concentrate is only intended to be corrosion inhibitor anyway.

Kind of on the right track but majority wrong.

Ability to move heat: Glycol has a 15% increase in circulated heat flow than water. Which is handy for when your coolant decides to pass right next to your exhaust manifold and turbo.

Heat capacity: Both water a glycol see the same results up until and beyond 122 degrees. Therefore pointless in 95-100 degree ranges

- Boiling point of water 99.98 degrees

- Boiling point of glycol 197.3 degrees

Without doing any calculations a 50/50 mix of the two will give you a boiling point of around 110 degrees. Which is great for you!

  On 01/02/2014 at 1:12 AM, GTRPSI said:

Make sure your clutch fan is working you should be able to hear it whirle when its hot, open the hood and give it a rev, there should be lots of airflow when its on.

Most times it can come back as a slipping clutch fan.

Make sure your running a shroud too atherwise it wont work effiecently.

I agree with this!! Because of my intercooler piping I can't run a clutch fan and therefore am running 2x12 inch thermos (far less superior to a clutch fan)

At the end of the day, you should research yourself and find out what works best for you and your cars setup. Or go and see a professional and get their opinion.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Not completely on topic but related to this question. Where should you run your water temp sensor, in the top radiator hose yes as that would be the hottest part of the system?

[Dan_J]

that or with the right adapters/ dies, the thread on the intake mani for the gauge sensor that goes to the cluster

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yes that's the location I would like it ideally but the sensor that came with my gauge is the wrong thread as you mentioned. Any idea what the thread in the intake manifold is?

[Dan_J]

you have two options:

a) get an adapter off kando ebay m12x1.25 - 1/8 and use thread sealant as the adapter doesnt have that much room for the sensor probe it will stick out a tad

b) what i have is a r31 ecu coolant sensor which is m12x1.5, use a m12x1.25 die to make it suit and wire it up . works great

Edited February 1, 2014 by Dan_J

[89CAL]

If you need to increase the concentration of glycol, you are really just bandaiding the problem. And a higher boiling point is kinda irrelevant, because if glycol boils at 197 degrees, you cant honestly tell me you want your engine getting anywhere near that hot anyway. If the car is hitting 110 then you have a problem. And even distilled water will barely be poiling at this point under 1 bar of pressure

I ran around with pure distilled water in my new engine for the first 2 weeks with no issue, the corrosion inhibiting properties of coolants is why we use it.

To me, there is no point raising the boiling point if you never want the car to run over 100 degrees c. Im sure a stronger concentrate of glycol must have a disadvantage that would outweigh the advantage of higher boiling point