Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I purchased my Skyline in November and noticed that at High RPM, I'm getting some odd engine knocking. Since then, I stored it for winter and never reved past 4000 rpm. I plan on sending it off to paint now and I starting taking it apart and decided I'd look at my plugs just to see how they looked because the previous owner said they were due when I bought it.

Upon first inspection, the plugs didn't seem too fouled and the gaps weren't abnormally large. I then decided to shop for new ones using the code that was on them to get the same ones or equivalent because I figure that whoever put them there did the research too. My mistake. I was running Bosch FR6DP1X Spark plugs which have all the correct specs except the height. There are 2 types: ISO and JIS. These were ISO which are a few mm shorter than the JIS spec. Uh oh.

After realizing the plugs were wrong, I carefully observed the top of the plugs and noticed corrosion and some pitting. New spark plugs were required. So after more research, I decided that I was going to purchase the NGK 5691 which are also known as BCPR7EIX-11. Great!

Since I have the coil packs off, I figure to myself that I will take the time to test them. So I take out my trusty multimeter, set it to Ohms and check the primary coils. The spec is from 0.6 - 0.9 ohms. They were all perfect. Yes! I then proceed to taking the rubber boots off to inspect the leads. Fudgesicle. Here's what I found:

Coils_1_2_3_indentified.jpg

Coil_4_5_6_identified.jpg

Long story short, Make sure you run JIS spec Spark plugs in your Skylines and Never trust that someone else did the research.

I do have a question, Does anyone have pics of the internals of their OEM coil packs so I can compare? I've been speaking with Paul at Performance Wise and he showed me the internals of the Yellow Jacket Coil Packs that he sells. They don't seem to have a lead at the end of the spring (I dont have any leads on Coil 2 & 4, but the rest seem to). Thanks for the help. Cheers!

DynamiX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...