Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries mate. Also something else to consider - Due to the walbro being smaller and having a 45deg filter sock, it will fit a lot nicer into the cavity of the fuel tank allowing pick up a little further down the tank than what the bosch pumps permit. I've always commended bosch for having quality products but this time round, I can definitely say for an R33 Skyline application - Walbro > Bosch.

This!!!!

I've just had a report back from Bosch they say my failed pump has had contaminated fuel through it and that is why it has failed this is my second unit inside 2 years and I've now gone to Walbro as it seems Bosch pumps can't take a bit of contaminated fuel maybe they should be race use only?

my 32 ate 2 bosch pumps,some debris in the fuel kiled one randomly, usual noisy symptoms, surging ect.replaced it and all was fine for a bit then that one went too. i had miniscule particles in the fuel, took the tank out and had it cleaned, new pump (different brand) and all was well.i couldnt even see anything on the mesh but its the tiny bits that got into the pump. kills them fast. be wary of sticking another pump in, what killed it last time may take another out. check your fuel and tank, at least flush it, all new fuel, new fuel filter too.

See my post above I reckon changing to a different brand was the main factor in fixing your problem .I've been through 2 and my tank was cleaned when second one went in 1 year 8-10k later loud noise and death. seeing as quite a few people have been through multiple Bosch pumps I think they need to redesign their filter as even a bit if contamination seems to fark em.

Edited by Nii San

Only started stuffing up once I took it down to the tuners and filled it up in Melbourne. Never have any issues with fuel in the country :) Maybe theirs is stirred up more becuase of more frequent filling and usage?

Well I'll see how long this one lasts then I'll move to Walbro.

Edited by GotsWapan

do those E85 460's really draw 20A?

I wouldn't trust the factory connections on the fuel lid with that kind of current. I'd be punching through the lid, feed some 25A wire and hot glue it. Does anyone bother doing that?

This is exactly what I plan on doing if I melt anything again, bypassing the plug itself. The wire inside the tank running to the pump itself seems to be rather thick and 'beefy', if it melts I'll get really ragey again and just wire directly to it. If I go to that extent, I may replace the wire inside of the tank because I'll be in the vicinity anyway..

CAN CONFIRM 7.5 AMP WIRE WILL MELT SHIT IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM WITH A 460LPH PUMP.

(this is bad)

I would have taken a photo of the remains of the fuse, but it crumbled to pieces like dust when I touched it.

And yet I have fitted plenty of 460's without issues. I would say if you keep the contacts clean you should be fine, but I agree, the plugs are definitely under sized for 20 amp draw.

So the outcome of the thread was the 040 has a crap filter design, but you should just keep replacing it with the same useless pump because it draws less current? :P (I run twin 255's as they draw much less current for similar flow to the 460L Walbro.)

Fuel issue is solved for now. New 040 fixed is. As stated pump was whining really bad. By the end of it, it was struggling to get up hills.

Mechanic wants to run a walbro 255 in my R33, From what i can gather this is not big enough while running 340kw @ 22psi. anyone in the know want to confirm please

No I don't believe that'll be anywhere near sufficient and I'm no mechanic, man. Some of the other fellas will be able to help you out on what fuel system to run for that power as I've never had that much curry behind my wheels before.

Mechanic wants to run a walbro 255 in my R33, From what i can gather this is not big enough while running 340kw @ 22psi. anyone in the know want to confirm please

What fuel? It will be on it's limits with 98, it might even hold you back a little without hard wiring the power and keeping the base pressure down.

Tell him you want two. :P

What fuel? It will be on it's limits with 98, it might even hold you back a little without hard wiring the power and keeping the base pressure down.

Tell him you want two. :P

Can you go two in tank? id be happy to go next size up or even a Nismo pump, running 98 fuel.

In my instance I didn't think about the plug cleanliness at all, so definitely contributed.

I bought my own female (singular) connectors and soldered 12ga wire directly to it, I even left the factory wiring/relays/FPCM/resistor alone - in the event my dual relay setup fails I still can plug back the OEM wiring and drive home :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...