Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries mate. Also something else to consider - Due to the walbro being smaller and having a 45deg filter sock, it will fit a lot nicer into the cavity of the fuel tank allowing pick up a little further down the tank than what the bosch pumps permit. I've always commended bosch for having quality products but this time round, I can definitely say for an R33 Skyline application - Walbro > Bosch.

This!!!!

I've just had a report back from Bosch they say my failed pump has had contaminated fuel through it and that is why it has failed this is my second unit inside 2 years and I've now gone to Walbro as it seems Bosch pumps can't take a bit of contaminated fuel maybe they should be race use only?

my 32 ate 2 bosch pumps,some debris in the fuel kiled one randomly, usual noisy symptoms, surging ect.replaced it and all was fine for a bit then that one went too. i had miniscule particles in the fuel, took the tank out and had it cleaned, new pump (different brand) and all was well.i couldnt even see anything on the mesh but its the tiny bits that got into the pump. kills them fast. be wary of sticking another pump in, what killed it last time may take another out. check your fuel and tank, at least flush it, all new fuel, new fuel filter too.

See my post above I reckon changing to a different brand was the main factor in fixing your problem .I've been through 2 and my tank was cleaned when second one went in 1 year 8-10k later loud noise and death. seeing as quite a few people have been through multiple Bosch pumps I think they need to redesign their filter as even a bit if contamination seems to fark em.

Edited by Nii San

Only started stuffing up once I took it down to the tuners and filled it up in Melbourne. Never have any issues with fuel in the country :) Maybe theirs is stirred up more becuase of more frequent filling and usage?

Well I'll see how long this one lasts then I'll move to Walbro.

Edited by GotsWapan

do those E85 460's really draw 20A?

I wouldn't trust the factory connections on the fuel lid with that kind of current. I'd be punching through the lid, feed some 25A wire and hot glue it. Does anyone bother doing that?

This is exactly what I plan on doing if I melt anything again, bypassing the plug itself. The wire inside the tank running to the pump itself seems to be rather thick and 'beefy', if it melts I'll get really ragey again and just wire directly to it. If I go to that extent, I may replace the wire inside of the tank because I'll be in the vicinity anyway..

CAN CONFIRM 7.5 AMP WIRE WILL MELT SHIT IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM WITH A 460LPH PUMP.

(this is bad)

I would have taken a photo of the remains of the fuse, but it crumbled to pieces like dust when I touched it.

And yet I have fitted plenty of 460's without issues. I would say if you keep the contacts clean you should be fine, but I agree, the plugs are definitely under sized for 20 amp draw.

So the outcome of the thread was the 040 has a crap filter design, but you should just keep replacing it with the same useless pump because it draws less current? :P (I run twin 255's as they draw much less current for similar flow to the 460L Walbro.)

Fuel issue is solved for now. New 040 fixed is. As stated pump was whining really bad. By the end of it, it was struggling to get up hills.

Mechanic wants to run a walbro 255 in my R33, From what i can gather this is not big enough while running 340kw @ 22psi. anyone in the know want to confirm please

No I don't believe that'll be anywhere near sufficient and I'm no mechanic, man. Some of the other fellas will be able to help you out on what fuel system to run for that power as I've never had that much curry behind my wheels before.

Mechanic wants to run a walbro 255 in my R33, From what i can gather this is not big enough while running 340kw @ 22psi. anyone in the know want to confirm please

What fuel? It will be on it's limits with 98, it might even hold you back a little without hard wiring the power and keeping the base pressure down.

Tell him you want two. :P

What fuel? It will be on it's limits with 98, it might even hold you back a little without hard wiring the power and keeping the base pressure down.

Tell him you want two. :P

Can you go two in tank? id be happy to go next size up or even a Nismo pump, running 98 fuel.

In my instance I didn't think about the plug cleanliness at all, so definitely contributed.

I bought my own female (singular) connectors and soldered 12ga wire directly to it, I even left the factory wiring/relays/FPCM/resistor alone - in the event my dual relay setup fails I still can plug back the OEM wiring and drive home :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... šŸ˜›
    • I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. šŸ”¹ Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. šŸ”¹ First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). šŸ”¹ Second invoice: $1,375. šŸ”¹ Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like Iā€™m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! šŸ™ Am in Adelaide.
    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
Ɨ
Ɨ
  • Create New...