Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys,

i just serviced my r33 93 gtst. standard service plugs filter n oil.

put it back together and it sounds like its miss firing. iv tested the coil packs one by one and its seems they are ok cause every time i pull a plug off it miss fires worse. when under load it miss fires and spatters.?

is this a sign of a dying coil pack.?

any help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/
Share on other sites

well check the loom.

just checked the old plugs the last service i got done the dude has put BPR6E.. which are completely wrong. They are a lot thicker. could of those plugs stuffed the coil packs?

new plugs installed are BCPR6ES.

been trying to check the resistance on the coil packs but can't seem to find if Rb25DET S1 are the same as other RB coil packs and meant to be between 0.6 to 0.9?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/#findComment-7193660
Share on other sites

wrong plugs won't damage the coils.

Not sure in resistance, it also doesn't seem to be a good way of diagnosing coils anyway as heat makes a big difference. clean the boots and apply silicon grease and see if that helps.

I think it's the loom though, they get heaps crusty due to the heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/#findComment-7193706
Share on other sites

If its idling fine but missfiring under boost, close your plug gap down to 0.8mm first as a test.....im guessing you used the factory plug gaps....maybe check your old plug gaps and see what they were at, most people close the gaps to help stop on boost missfires.

While there take a look around the coils for burn marks/arcing.

If you see arcing marks around coils try wraping them in electrical tape as a temp fix till you change them.

Also its good practice to use dielectric grease around the boot inner edge to help stop arcing through there too.

Edited by GTRPSI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/#findComment-7194215
Share on other sites

hey guys plug gap is 11mm same as the old plugs. the plug cap shouldn't matter on a fully standard car only running standard boost. should it?

also its coughing and farting on idle now then miss fires on free rev. i check coil packs n coil loom all wires are good. couldn't see any burn marks or arcing.

man this is doing my head in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/#findComment-7194282
Share on other sites

got 0.8 mm plugs, tapped up the coil packs, cleaned the connectors n loom. still running rough on idle a missing under load.

i got a new fuel filter and noticed when i turn the key to acc the fuel pump stay on a lot longer then normal. even after i have tried to prime the lines 20 times.. :-/

any chance the pump is shitting itself. or is that the kind of thing that "it works or it doesn't."

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438866-r33-miss-firing/#findComment-7196094
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
    • Evening all. Got this odd issue with my R34 GTT. If I let the car idle for around 15 seconds or more (even when cold) and I jab the throttle a bit, a decently sized plume of blue/grey smoke comes out the exhaust. Doesn't smoke when idling alone, just when giving it some gas after idling. No smoke on cold start or from what I know, normal driving. Not 100% sure about smoke on decel but I don't think there's any. Any pointers on what I should start doing to troubleshoot it? Or if anyone has experienced the same I'd love to get some insight. Cheers.
×
×
  • Create New...