Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my missus ran it on 91 with E10 while i was overseas for a week and when i got back and drove it i could feel the engine jittery. feels like incomplete burn / running lean and the car was very underpowered, even the gear shifts seemed lazy.
so yes it can run it but it will kill your engine in the long run as the mapping and engine fuel management is intended for ron 95 or 98
i tend to fill up usually when it gets half way and il alternate sometimes 95 sometimes 98 and it runs smooth, no noises, quick response and unexpected surprises.

I ran 95 for a while when I first bought mine, I have since switched to 98 because it is only about 2cpl more than 95. I haven't noticed any difference in economy or performance.

From memory, Japan has 96RON.

E10 can be anywhere from about 91 to 96 RON depending on how long it has been sitting around.

United sell premium 100.

That's what I would be using if I wasn't tuned on their e85.

United 100 octane is garbage. its not really 100octane since it uses 10% e10 to boost the octane rating. been using it until i got my car uprev tuned and now running shell 98, much better

how do you know you get better economy if you have run 98RON 'since day one'?

Would you drink diet coke or normal coke? Normal because you know that its nicer and better than its "alternative" Edited by Howaitonaito

I always used RON98 on my 350GT in the past. Had to pump RON95 into it a couple of times when I was out of town and couldn't find a station with RON98 and noticed that the engine tends to be abit more sluggish. Anyway, the manual states that premium fuel should be used and I think I recall reading somewhere that premium fuel is basically at least RON97 or more so I always put RON98 in and have done the same for my 370GT.

Would you drink diet coke or normal coke? Normal because you know that its nicer and better than its "alternative"

Not really a relevant comparison, higher octane fuel only has a higher resistance to detonation, if you aren't detonating on 95, then 98 will do nothing for you.

I found no difference between 95 or 98 in regard to economy or performance, and I only run 98 now as I believe Japan's fuel is 96 and I prefer to er on the safe side.

Ive had two nissans before this both australian delivered cars and both went further on 98 than they did on e10.

I got told to put 98 in it when i bought it and i have. Always BP ultimate or Shell V-power (v power in a v)

Ive had two nissans before this both australian delivered cars and both went further on 98 than they did on e10.

Of course. Ethanol has a lower energy density

I have had 3 Nissans before the V35 and none of them benefited from running a higher octane fuel than they were made for.

if the V35 is indeed made for 96RON, then my preference is not to go below that, which means 98 is the best option.

Edited by sonicii

Question for those who have the ability to map / record engine parameters.

Have you seen the ECU ever actually take out timing due to the knock sensor sensing knock?

The knock map is just a secondary Table for ignition values, I don't believe it alternates between the two, but just throws a CEL and then switches over.

I've seen a motor die (nil compression) due to a bad tune knocking (electrodes off the sparkplugs). Yet the knock sensor seemed to do SFA. Unless the tuner didn't complete the knock map, or the knock map wasn't touched and had higher than tuned map values, in which we'll never know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...