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Battery Relocation To Boot, Who Wants Cash?


FordyR31
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No stereo really, a CD player and 2 front speaker, no amp lol. Eboost runs off it and standard accessories, that's about it. A mate works in spare parts and has priced up all the cables, battery clamps and isolator switch etc. I don't drive the car very often either. Maybe try to start it fortnightly for a bit and go for a short drive but that's about it, track days are pretty few and far between really. In the HR31, there are pits on either side of the boot, one to hold the space saver and the other side for tools and jack so if the battery fits, it may go in there. I don't intend on smashing it so should be safe enough there? It would restrict any movement should the bracket fail for whatever reason.

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The under car would be quicker but if you hit something or catch it underneath very dangerous. Its a little bit more pain to put the cable through the car but will look a hell of a lot neater, almost factory. And be a hell of a lot safer then having it dangling under the car. For an extra 30min or so of mucking around its well work the effort. To make it quicker you could always take out all your seats ba the drivers one before you come here. Then we can pull the carpet back that way and will be a lot quicker and easier :)

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I was thinking of at least pulling the rear seat out before I bring it. I know that's the easy bit. When I have all the gear together I will send you a PM and work out a time and date. I have got a fair bit on in March, going away for F1 weekend and also a weekend away for an engagement party, working a weekend in between etc but we will be able to work something out somewhere along the line. I'm all for neat work btw lol.

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No stereo really, a CD player and 2 front speaker, no amp lol. Eboost runs off it and standard accessories, that's about it. A mate works in spare parts and has priced up all the cables, battery clamps and isolator switch etc. I don't drive the car very often either. Maybe try to start it fortnightly for a bit and go for a short drive but that's about it, track days are pretty few and far between really. In the HR31, there are pits on either side of the boot, one to hold the space saver and the other side for tools and jack so if the battery fits, it may go in there. I don't intend on smashing it so should be safe enough there? It would restrict any movement should the bracket fail for whatever reason.

If you're only running standard cd player and accessories then 0 gauge might be a bit overkill as Johnny said. I reckon you can easily get away with 4 gauge and will reduce the cost of cabling a bit more.

Luke - were you planning on running the positive directly to the alternator?

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If you're only running standard cd player and accessories then 0 gauge might be a bit overkill as Johnny said. I reckon you can easily get away with 4 gauge and will reduce the cost of cabling a bit more.

Luke - were you planning on running the positive directly to the alternator?

On my 32 i ran the positive to the starter and alternator plus the fuse box. Ill have to see where the factory wiring goes from the battery, essentially the easiest way is to take the feeds from the original +v terminal directly to back of starter or alternator. Alternatively you could put a kill switch in the engine bay or "iso" with 1 side comming from the boot and the other from the original +v cables running from fuse/starter and alternator.

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  • 1 month later...

Update, taken all of your advice in to consideration. I have the positive and negative cable, battery clamps, other u-clamps, kill switch and just ordered the Optima D34 :).

Battery isn't expected to be here until March 31st so not sure if it will all be done before the track day on April 23. Once this is done I can book the car in with Jez for the plenum install and retune. Happy times.

Luke, I will PM you once the battery is here and work out a day to get this done! I do like how you did it in your 32. Where did you get the black cable protector from?

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