Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You'll need to get it fabricated and honestly its not worth the hassle unless you are running massive twins and by massive i mean 2 big f**k offf top mounts. single 3.5" will support 750-800hp and 4" will support 1000hp.

With the space you have under the gtr running twin 3" piping will be the biggest pain in the ass ever!

I'm a boilermaker and do exhausts/ic piping as a hobbie on the side occasionally. i looked at doing it to my own car but it simply isnt worth the time money or stuff around that it'll take.

Also the weight of a twin system would be double that of a single as you'll need 2 cats 2 or 4 mufflers and a cross over pipe as well if you dont incorporate that into the mufflers.. It can be done.. but its simply not worth doing

If you can find dual Kakimoto or HKS dual dragger, they are 2x 2.5" all the way from dump pipes.

Which is roughly the same area of 3.3 inch, IIRC. Hardly worth while and I dare say be loud as hell!

Which is roughly the same area of 3.3 inch, IIRC. Hardly worth while and I dare say be loud as hell!

But it's nice to look at it.

I picked dual dragger for cheap and I've always wanted one so it worked out alright for me. It isn't that loud down low, once you mash the loud pedal up top...

damn thats an awesome sound. I dont like the dual right next to eachother look though. was hoping to find something that splits off to each side in the back. I might have to do some custom work for this one.

I'm currently in the build of a 3inch twin system for my 32R, I got custom mufflers being built. Than I'll fab the rest of system myself. Which will be twin 3inch into a 4inch merge just before the diff.

The reason why I'm going twin 3 is because I want max ground clearance, I can run good free flowing mufflers to it is quite, and at the same time it flows heaaaaps. So my exhaust will not be a restriction what so ever with my -5s, the exhaust is the one of the main things that smuthers them.

I'll post pics once it's all complete, it prob won't be done for another month as I work FIFO so it will have to wait till I'm home again to continue on with them.

Once they done, I was thinking of building a jig for the system, and making up 4-5 of them and selling them in a GB but that won't be for awhile, it will need to be built, fitted and some dyno work done to ensure it works.

Cheers

Deano

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
×
×
  • Create New...